and is prepared from oil of sassafras and oil
of camphor. Cumarine, the material to which tonka
bean, sweet woodruff, and new-mown hay owe their characteristic
odors, was synthetically prepared by W.H. Parkin
in 1868 by heating sodiosalicylic aldehyde with
acetic anhydride, though now more cheaply prepared
from an herb growing in Florida. Irone, which
has the perfume of violets, was isolated in 1893 from
a ketone contained in orris-root; and ionone, another
ketone which has a very closely similar odor of
fresh violets and was isolated after some years’
further work, is largely used in the preparation
of violet perfume. Irone and ionone are closely
similar in composition to oil of turpentine which
when taken into the body is partly converted into
perfume and gives a strong odor of violets to
the urine. “Little has yet been accomplished
toward ascertaining the relation between the odor
and the chemical constitution of substances in
general. Hydrocarbons as a class possess
considerable similarity in odor, so also do the organic
sulphides and, to a much smaller extent, the ketones.
The subject waits for some one to correlate its
various physiological, psychological and physical
aspects in the same way that Helmholtz did for
sound. It seems, as yet, impossible to assign
any probable reason to the fact that many substances
have a pleasant odor. It may, however, be
worth suggesting that certain compounds, such
as the volatile sulphides and the indoles, have
very unpleasant odors because they are normal constituents
of mammalian excreta and of putrefied animal products;
the repulsive odors may be simply necessary results
of evolutionary processes.” (
Loc. cit.,
Nature, December 27, 1900.)
Many of the perfumes in use are really
combinations of a great many different odors in
varying proportions, such as oil of rose, lavender
oil, ylang-ylang, etc. The most highly appreciated
perfumes are often made up of elements which in
stronger proportion would be regarded as highly
unpleasant.
In the study and manufacture of perfumes
Germany and France have taken the lead in recent
times. The industry is one of great importance.
In France alone the trade in perfumes amounts to L4,000,000.
It is doubtless largely owing to the essential and
fundamental identity of odors—to the chemical
resemblances even of odors from the most widely remote
sources—that we find that perfumes in many
cases have the same sexual effects as are primitively
possessed by the body odors. In northern countries,
where the use of perfumes is chiefly cultivated by
women, it is by women that this sexual influence is
most liable to be felt. In the South and in the
East it appears to be at least equally often experienced
by men. Thus, in Italy Mantegazza remarks that
“many men of strong sexual temperament cannot
visit with impunity a laboratory of essences and perfumes."[56]
In the East we find it stated in the Islamic book entitled
The Perfumed Garden of Sheik Nefzaoui that the
use of perfumes by women, as well as by men, excites
to the generative act. It is largely in reliance
on this fact that in many parts of the world, especially
among Eastern peoples and occasionally among ourselves
in Europe, women have been accustomed to perfume the
body and especially the vulva.[57]