FISH.

Cod has white stripes, and a haddock black stripes; they may be known apart by this.  Haddock is the best for frying; and cod is the best for boiling, or for a chowder.  A thin tail is a sign of a poor fish; always choose a thick fish.  When you are buying mackerel, pinch the belly to ascertain whether it is good.  If it gives under your finger, like a bladder half filled with wind, the fish is poor; if it feels hard like butter, the fish is good.  It is cheaper to buy one large mackerel for ninepence, than two for four pence half-penny each.

Fish should not be put in to fry until the fat is boiling hot; it is very necessary to observe this.  It should be dipped in Indian meal before it is put in; and the skinny side uppermost, when first put in, to prevent its breaking.  It relishes better to be fried after salt pork, than to be fried in lard alone.  People are mistaken, who think fresh fish should be put into cold water as soon as it is brought into the house; soaking it in water is injurious.  If you want to keep it sweet, clean it, wash it, wipe it dry with a clean towel, sprinkle salt inside and out, put it in a covered dish, and keep it on the cellar floor until you want to cook it.  If you live remote from the seaport, and cannot get fish while hard and fresh, wet it with an egg beaten, before you meal it, to prevent its breaking.

Fish gravy is very much improved by taking out some of the fat, after the fish is fried, and putting in a little butter.  The fat thus taken out will do to fry fish again; but it will not do for any kind of shortening.  Shake in a little flour into the hot fat, and pour in a little boiling water; stir it up well, as it boils, a minute or so.  Some people put in vinegar; but this is easily added by those who like it.

A common sized cod-fish should be put in when the water is boiling hot, and boil about twenty minutes.  Haddock is not as good for boiling as cod; it takes about the same time to boil.

A piece of halibut which weighs four pounds is a large dinner for a family of six or seven.  It should boil forty minutes.  No fish put in till the water boils.  Melted butter for sauce.

Clams should boil about fifteen minutes in their own water; no other need be added, except a spoonful to keep the bottom shells from burning.  It is easy to tell when they are done, by the shells starting wide open.  After they are done, they should be taken from the shells, washed thoroughly in their own water, and put in a stewing pan.  The water should then be strained through a cloth, so as to get out all the grit; the clams should be simmered in it ten or fifteen minutes; a little thickening of flour and water added; half a dozen slices of toasted bread or cracker; and pepper, vinegar and butter to your taste.  Salt is not needed.