There is more deception in geese than in any other kind of poultry.  The above remarks are applied to them; but there are other signs more infallible.  In a young goose, the cavity under the wings is very tender; it is a bad sign if you cannot, with very little trouble, push your finger directly into the flesh.  There is another means by which you may decide whether a goose be tender, if it be frozen or not.  Pass the head of a pin along the breast, or sides, and if the goose be young, the skin will rip, like fine paper under a knife.

Something may be judged concerning the age of a goose by the thickness of the web between the toes.  When young, this is tender and transparent; it grows coarser and harder with time.

In broiling chickens, it is difficult to do the inside of the thickest pieces without scorching the outside.  It is a good plan to parboil them about ten minutes in a spider or skillet, covered close to keep the steam in; then put them upon the gridiron, broil and butter.  It is a good plan to cover them with a plate, while on the gridiron.  They may be basted with a very little of the water in which they were broiled; and if you have company who like melted butter to pour upon the chicken, the remainder of the liquor will be good use for that purpose.

An hour is enough for common sized chickens to roast.  A smart fire is better than a slow one; but they must be tended closely.  Slices of bread, buttered, salted, and peppered, put into the stomach (not the crop) are excellent.

Chickens should boil about an hour.  If old, they should boil longer.  In as little water as will cook them.  Chicken-broth made like mutton-broth.

FRICASSEED CHICKEN, BROWN.

Singe the chickens; cut them in pieces; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them in fresh butter, till they are very brown:  take the chickens out, and make a good gravy, into which put sweet herbs (marjoram or sage) according to your taste; if necessary, add pepper and salt; butter and flour must be used in making the gravy, in such quantities as to suit yourself for thickness and richness.  After this is all prepared, the chicken must be stewed in it, for half an hour, closely covered.  A pint of gravy is about enough for two chickens; I should think a piece of butter about as big as a walnut, and a table-spoonful of flour, would be enough for the gravy.  The herbs should, of course, be pounded and sifted.  Some, who love onions, slice two or three, and brown them with the chicken.  Some slice a half lemon, and stew with the chicken.  Some add tomatoes catsup.

FRICASSEED CHICKEN, WHITE.

The chickens are cut to pieces, and covered with warm water, to draw out the blood.  Then put into a stew-pan, with three quarters of a pint of water, or veal broth, salt, pepper, flour, butter, mace, sweet herbs pounded and sifted; boil it half an hour.  If it is too fat, skim it a little.  Just before it is done, mix the yolk of two eggs with a gill of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, stir it up till it is thick and smooth, squeeze in half a lemon.  If you like onions, stew some slices with the other ingredients.