walk of the shrouded Moslem women.  She is a woman of Bethlehem, where a tradition, it is said, still claims as a heroic heritage the blood of the Latin knights of the cross.  This is, of course, but one aspect of the city; but it is one which may be early noted, yet one which is generally neglected.  As I have said, I had expected many things of Jerusalem, but I had not expected this.  I had expected to be disappointed with it as a place utterly profaned and fallen below its mission.  I had expected to be awed by it; indeed I had expected to be frightened of it, as a place dedicated and even doomed by its mission.  But I had never fancied that it would be possible to be fond of it; as one might be fond of a little walled town among the orchards of Normandy or the hop-fields of Kent.

And just then there happened a coincidence that was also something like a catastrophe.  I was idly watching, as it moved down the narrow street to one of the dark doorways, the head-dress, like a tower of white drapery, belonging to the Christian woman from the place where Christ was born.  After she had disappeared into the darkness of the porch I continued to look vaguely at the porch, and thought how easily it might have been a small Gothic gate in some old corner of Rouen, or even Canterbury.  In twenty such places in the town one may see the details that appeal to the same associations, so different and so distant.  One may see that angular dogtooth ornament that makes the round Norman gateways look like the gaping mouths of sharks.  One may see the pointed niches in the walls, shaped like windows and serving somewhat the purpose of brackets, on which were to stand sacred images possibly removed by the Moslems.  One may come upon a small court planted with ornamental trees with some monument in the centre, which makes the precise impression of something in a small French town.  There are no Gothic spires, but there are numberless Gothic doors and windows; and he who first strikes the place at this angle, as it were, may well feel the Northern element as native and the Eastern element as intrusive.  While I was thinking all these things, something happened which in that place was almost a portent.

It was very cold; and there were curious colours in the sky.  There had been chilly rains from time to time; and the whole air seemed to have taken on something sharper than a chill.  It was as if a door had been opened in the northern corner of the heavens; letting in something that changed all the face of the earth.  Great grey clouds with haloes of lurid pearl and pale-green were coming up from the plains or the sea and spreading over the towers of the city.  In the middle of the moving mass of grey vapours was a splash of paler vapour; a wan white cloud whose white seemed somehow more ominous than gloom.  It went over the high citadel like a white wild goose flying; and a few white feathers fell.

It was the snow; and it snowed day and night until that Eastern city was sealed up like a village in Norway or Northern Scotland.  It rose in the streets till men might almost have been drowned in it like a sea of solid foam.  And the people of the place told me there had been no such thing seen in it in all recent records, or perhaps in the records of all its four thousand years.