The very phrase is like an everlasting echo, that
can never cease to say the same sacred word; and when
I saw afterwards the mightiest and most magnificent
of all the mosques of that land, I found that its inscriptions
had the same character of a deliberate and defiant
sameness. The ancient Arabic alphabet and script
is itself at once so elegant and so exact that it
can be used as a fixed ornament, like the egg and
dart pattern or the Greek key. It is as if we
could make a heraldry of handwriting, or cover a wall-paper
with signatures. But the literary style is as
recurrent as the decorative style; perhaps that is
why it can be used as a decorative style. Phrases
are repeated again and again like ornamental stars
or flowers. Many modern people, for example,
imagine that the Athanasian Creed is full of vain
repetitions; but that is because people are too lazy
to listen to it, or not lucid enough to understand
it. The same terms are used throughout, as they
are in a proposition of Euclid. But the steps
are all as differentiated and progressive as in a
proposition of Euclid. But in the inscriptions
of the Mosque whole sentences seem to occur, not like
the steps of an argument, but rather like the chorus
of a song. This is the impression everywhere
produced by this spirit of the sandy wastes; this
is the voice of the desert, though the muezzin cries
from the high turrets of the city. Indeed one
is driven to repeating oneself about the repetition,
so overpowering is the impression of the tall horizons
of those tremendous plains, brooding upon the soul
with all the solemn weight of the self-evident.
There is indeed another aspect of the desert, yet
more ancient and momentous, of which I may speak;
but here I only deal with its effect on this great
religion of simplicity. For it is through the
atmosphere of that religion that a man makes his way,
as so many pilgrims have done, to the goal of this
pilgrimage. Also this particular aspect remained
the more sharply in my memory because of the suddenness
with which I escaped from it. I had not expected
the contrast; and it may have coloured all my after
experiences. I descended from the desert train
at Ludd, which had all the look of a large camp in
the desert; appropriately enough perhaps, for it is
the traditional birthplace of the soldier St. George.
At the moment, however, there was nothing rousing or
romantic about its appearance. It was perhaps
unusually dreary; for heavy rain had fallen; and the
water stood about in what it is easier to call large
puddles than anything so poetic as small pools.
A motor car sent by friends had halted beside the platform;
I got into it with a not unusual vagueness about where
I was going; and it wound its way up miry paths to
a more rolling stretch of country with patches of
cactus here and there. And then with a curious
abruptness I became conscious that the whole huge
desert had vanished, and I was in a new land.
The dark red plains had rolled away like an enormous
nightmare; and I found myself in a fresh and exceedingly
pleasant dream.