burn the branches and small shrubs and plants which
they root up. The soil, in some parts, is a rich
black mould; in other parts, it seemed to be composed
of decayed vegetables, and of the ashes the volcano
sends forth throughout all its neighbourhood.
Happening to turn out of the common path, we came into
a plantation where we found a man at work, who, either
out of good-nature, or to get us the sooner out of
his territories, undertook to be our guide. We
followed him, accordingly, but had not gone far before
we came to the junction of two roads, in one of which
stood another man with a sling and a stone, which
he thought proper to lay down when a musquet was pointed
at him. The attitude in which we found him, the
ferocity appearing in his looks, and his behaviour
after, convinced us that he meant to defend the path
he stood in. He, in some measure, gained his point,
for our guide took the other road, and we followed,
but not without suspecting he was leading us out of
the common way. The other man went with us likewise,
counting us several times over, and hallooing, as
we judged, for assistance; for we were presently joined
by two or three more, among whom was a young woman
with a club in her hand. By these people we were
conducted to the brow of a hill, and shewn a road
leading down to the harbour, which they wanted us to
take. Not choosing to comply, we returned to that
we had left, which we pursued alone, our guide refusing
to go with us. After ascending another ridge,
as thickly covered with wood as those we had come over,
we saw yet other hills between us and the volcano,
which seemed as far off as at our first setting out.
This discouraged us from proceeding farther, especially
as we could get no one to be our guide. We therefore
came to a resolution to return; and had but just put
this in execution when we met between twenty and thirty
people, whom the fellow before mentioned had collected
together, with a design, as we judged, to oppose our
advancing into the country; but as they saw us returning
they suffered us to pass unmolested. Some of
them put us into the right road, accompanied us down
the hill, made us stop by the way, to entertain us
with cocoa-nuts, plantains, and sugar-cane; and what
we did not eat on the spot, they brought down the hill
with us. Thus we found these people hospitable,
civil, and good-natured, when not prompted to a contrary
conduct by jealousy; a conduct I cannot tell how to
blame them for, especially when I considered the light
in which they must view us. It was impossible
for them to know our real design; we enter their ports
without their daring to oppose; we endeavour to land
in their country as friends, and it is well if this
succeeds; we land, nevertheless, and maintain the
footing we have got, by the superiority of our fire-arms.
Under such circumstances, what opinion are they to
form of us? Is it not as reasonable for them
to think that we are come to invade their country,
as to pay them a friendly visit? Time, and some