It would now require vast sums to restore this edifice; which will probably be soon as desolate as the Castle of Heidelberg, with which, however, it could never stand a comparison, either in point of situation or architecture.  There are some handsome walks near the palace, which extend along the Rhine, where the fortifications have been demolished.  There are some spacious squares in the city; that before the town-house is adorned by a handsome bronze fountain.  The population of the city has been estimated at 24,000; but it has probably rather diminished of late.  Several of the tradespeople exhibit the arms of Baden over their shops, and boast of supplying their sovereign’s family with various articles; but trade has every appearance of being here at a very low ebb.  The road for some leagues beyond Manheim was by far the worst we had yet passed in Germany; but then we had made a detour in visiting Manheim, which does not lie on the direct road to Frankfort.

The next place of any note was Darmstadt, the residence of the grand duke of Hesse Darmstadt:  it seems a place of recent origin, where much has been attempted and but little completed.  There are several spacious streets marked out, and a few good houses dispersed over a considerable extent of ground, which give it a melancholy appearance.

Its situation is not well chosen, as it is in a sandy plain, without any river in the vicinity.

We visited the old castle or palace, situated in the centre of the town, which seems now used as a barrack.  The number of troops seemed very considerable, and they are not inferior to the Wurtembergers in appearance.  Near the old palace are handsome gardens laid out in the English taste, which were much frequented on Sunday.  The present grand duke inhabits a palace in the suburbs, which has little to boast of.

A few hours drive brought us to Frankfort.  The country for the most part is flat, and abounds with woods, but, except near Frankfort, has little to interest the traveller.  We found that great commercial city fully answerable to our expectations.  Every thing announces the opulence of its inhabitants.  The streets are spacious, and adorned with houses far surpassing any that either Paris or London can boast of.  Some of the great merchants maybe literally said to inhabit palaces.  There are a vast number of inns; some of them are on a great scale, and worthy to be ranked among the best in Europe.  I observed in the streets here a greater number of handsome private carriages than I had seen in Paris.  Although the situation of Frankfort is not remarkable, in a picturesque point of view, when compared with some other cities, yet it is extremely advantageous for its inhabitants, being placed in the centre of the richest country in Germany, whilst the Mein and Rhine afford every facility for commerce.  The roads are also in excellent order.  That between Frankfort and Mayence is paved, and is perhaps the most frequented in Germany.  There are various well-known manufactures, and the shops are supplied with the productions of all countries.  I first noticed here the custom of having small mirrors projecting into the streets, that the inhabitants may see, by reflection, what passes in them.