Our road to Heidelberg lay for several miles along the banks of the Necker, which are well-wooded, and adorned with several villages, and a large convent.  The gate by which we entered Heidelberg, is a remarkably fine piece of Grecian architecture.  The city is large and well built; but there is little appearance of trade or activity amongst its inhabitants.  The Castle is situated on a steep hill above the town, and its terrace commands a vast prospect over a plain, enlivened by the windings of the river, as well as by the spires of the city.  This palace was the residence of the electors palatine, and must have been a fine piece of Gothic architecture.  It was laid waste, together with the whole palatinate, in consequence of those orders which will for ever disgrace the memory of Lewis the Fourteenth.

It is, however, still striking; and although the scene is silent and desolate, it is unquestionably grand.

In a building adjoining the castle, is the famed Tun of Heidelberg, constructed by one of the electors at the suggestion of his buffoon, whose statue is placed near this enormous tun, which can contain 326,000 bottles.  We were told that the jester (some will not allow him to be called the fool) assisted his master in drinking eighteen bottles of the best Rhenish wine daily.  The table where they sat, near the tun, is still shewn.  The country about Heidelberg and Manheim is from its fertility called the Garden of Germany; but I have seen in Germany much finer districts.  It is a well cultivated plain, and abounds with vineyards:  beyond Manheim is a greater extent of ground under potatoes, than I have ever met with before out of Ireland.  There is but little wood, and the roads run between rows of walnut and cherry trees.  Manheim is considered as one of the handsomest cities in Germany, being built on a regular plan.  It consists of twelve streets, intersected at right angles by eight others; but there is in this regularity a sameness which soon tires the eye.

The Rhine passes close on one side of the city, and the Necker washing the other side, soon after falls into the Rhine, over which there is a bridge of boats.  The palace is in a fine situation, and next to Versailles, is the largest structure for the residence of a sovereign that I have seen.  This city became the residence of the electors palatine, after the destruction of the Castle of Heidelberg, and the palace was erected in consequence.  On the accession of the reigning family to Bavaria, Munich became their capital, and this palace was neglected.  Subsequent changes have transferred this country to the Grand Duke of Baden, who continues to reside at Carlsruhe.