The red stockings of the peasants in this Canton have a remarkable appearance, and reminded me of the dress of the theatre.
Schaffhausen is the capital of the Canton of that name, and is built on the right bank of the Rhine. Its bridge is but lately completed, in the place of the ancient one, constructed by Grubenman, which was considered as a great architectural curiosity, but was destroyed during one of the campaigns in this country. The town of Schaffhausen is well built, and has a handsome appearance. Its population is calculated at 7000, and that of the Canton at 23,000.
The reformed religion was introduced here in 1529. The clergy are paid by the state, but their allowance is far from liberal. Many sumptuary laws exist here, and dancing is prohibited by them, except under particular circumstances. I am, however, inclined to question whether these laws are still enforced.
In the vicinity of the town are some manufactories of linens, cottons, and silks. The country is well cultivated, and the road between Oerlingen and Bancken affords an extensive prospect of the Swiss mountains, which seem ranged in array to bid a last farewell to the departing traveller, who cannot but feel regret on leaving a country not less distinguished for the magnificence of its scenery, than for the simplicity and good nature of its inhabitants.
At Schaffhausen I made many inquiries respecting the celebrated Schabecyge or Chapsigre cheese (made in the canton of Glarus) and found that the principal ingredient which gives it so strong a perfume is the trifolium odoratum, or meliot odorant. The aromatic qualities of this cheese render it very wholesome. The Swiss tea, composed of mountain herbs, is said to be so likewise; it is not, however, very palatable as a beverage, nor should I think it very effectual as a remedy. If it meets in general with no greater approbation than it did in a party where I saw it tried, Switzerland cannot expect to carry on any trade in this article, sufficient to prejudice the exclusive commerce which the East India Company enjoy with China.
There being nothing to detain, me at Schaffhausen, I was induced, at the request of a Doctor of the University of Leipsic, with whom I became acquainted at Zurich, to join him in proceeding in the diligence into Germany. I found this conveyance, although tedious, yet little if at all inferior to those in France (although I had understood the contrary in that country). The Doctor would have been a most agreeable companion, but for his unfortunate love of tobacco; his pipe was hardly well extinguished, before he was busy in striking his flint to rekindle it. He seemed much surprised that I did not smoke, and still more so when I told him it was not usual in England to smoke in company; for in Germany, after dinner and in the evening, when ladies are present, it is usual to smoke a segar. The Doctor seemed to meditate a journey into England, but I doubt whether he will find any thing there sufficient to afford him an equivalent for the abandonment of the six pipes which he told me he used alternately at Leipsic.