CHAP.  XIV.

On entering Zurich, it is impossible not to feel a sensation of disappointment, as its internal appearance by no means corresponds with the beauty of the distant scene.  Its streets are narrow and winding, and the houses are mostly of mean architecture, but there are few places where I observed more of the activity of commerce.  Many of its churches and public buildings are handsome.  It boasts a population of 14,000, a number exceeding that of any town in Switzerland, Geneva excepted.  The Canton is next in importance to Berne, and contains 180,000 inhabitants.

The reformation was introduced here in 1523, by Ulric Zuingle, whose death was noticed in the last chapter; he, like Pope Julius, exchanged for a time the mitre for the helmet.  The inns at Zurich are more expensive than the hotels of Paris; they say it is owing to this being the seat of the Swiss Diet.  I had the honour of dining in company with several of the Deputies (at the public table at the Sword Tavern) and they seemed very inquisitive as to the state of affairs in England.  Our company exceeded thirty, and the dinner was unusually tedious:  this seems to have been expected, as there were pans of charcoal or ashes, placed under the principal dishes, which had a very unpleasant effect.  A band of music, stationed in an adjoining room, only served to add to the confused noise of the servants, without allowing us to judge of the beauty of the music, or of the merits of the musicians; and I felt no regret when the master of the band at length thought fit that we should purchase an interval of quiet.  Before I quitted Zurich, I was desirous of making an excursion on its lake, and accordingly joined a party in visiting Rapperschwill, which is situated in a charming country, but is chiefly remarkable for its bridge, constructed of wood, over that part of the lake which is by a promontory reduced to the width of 1800 feet, forming, perhaps, the longest bridge in Europe, except that of St. Esprit, near Nismes, which is 3000 feet.  The bridge of Prague is 1700 feet, and that of Westminster 1200.

Soon after my return from this excursion, I set out for Schaffhausen; but after we had lost sight of the lake and city of Zurich, the country had nothing to interest the traveller.  About a league from Zurich is the Greinfensee, but that piece of water is not interesting, either in point of scenery or extent.  The river Glatt flows through the plain; it has none of the characteristics of a Swiss stream, “but choked with sedges, works its weary way.”

About two leagues further, we passed the river Joss, which, by the beauty of its windings amongst wooded hills (on one of which stands an ancient castle) convinced us that we had not yet altogether bid farewell to the romantic scenery of Switzerland.

The woods here are very extensive, and almost entirely composed of fir; they produce annually a succession of plants which form an underwood, and greatly contribute to the beauty of the scene, by concealing the naked stems of the older trees.