Worb, where we visited a sawmill, and were much pleased with that useful invention.  There are near the village several of the most extensive bleach-greens in Switzerland.  At Luzelflueh we passed the river Emmen, and soon after stopped some time whilst oar horses rested.  I have never been in a country where horses are taken better care of; they are always in excellent condition, and after mounting any considerable hill, the driver does not fail to give them some slices of bread.

As we proceeded, we were struck with the profusion of autumnal crocuses, with which the fields were enlivened, and stopped to sleep at the inconsiderable village of Sumiswald, where the inn, like the rest of the houses, was entirely built of wood.  We were shewn into an apartment where several peasants were at supper, and on the table lay a newspaper, which (although its date was not very recent) seemed to interest them extremely.  Several more peasants having come in, we were, as strangers, conducted into a more private room, but it was so small, as to give us the idea that we were in a box.  Our hostess was not long in preparing supper, and as it was extremely frugal, she produced for us a bottle of Neufchatel wine, of much better quality than one could have expected to meet with in so retired a situation.  We set out at an early hour next morning, and, after passing through a vast forest of fir, arrived to breakfast at Zell, in the canton of Lucerne, where the number of chapels by the road-side announced that the Roman Catholic was the established religion.  The valley beyond Zell is extensive and well watered.  The peasants display much ingenuity in irrigating their meadows.  The orchards are numerous, and, as well as the meadows, are refreshed by ductile streams.  In the centre of the valley rises a lofty eminence, on the summit of which are the remains of the castle of Hapstalla, which, half concealed by a mass of wood, forms a conspicuous object amidst the cultivation of the surrounding scenery.  The small towns of Huttweil and Willisan present nothing worthy of remark; but Sursee is a neat town, and the lake of Sempacli adds greatly to the cheerful appearance of the country, which it waters to a considerable extent.  The town of Sempach is noted in history for the defeat of Leopold, Duke of Austria, in 1386, by the forces of the Swiss confederation.  The Duke, together with his chief nobility, perished in the engagement, which is further memorable by the heroism of Arnold Winkdried.  The approach to Lucerne along the river Reuss is singularly beautiful, the banks are steep and well wooded, and the distant appearance of the city, front the number of its turrets and spires, is highly impressive.  Its situation is certainly superior to that of any city in Switzerland (Berne perhaps excepted).  The mountains which surround that part of the lake seen from the town, immediately reminded me of the magnificent scenery of Killarney.