extremely communicative, and shewed us some of the
apartments of the castle, as well as the garden, where
is a terrace washed by the lake, which as the sun
had long set, and at its waters presented an unruffled
surface, was altogether one of the most
tranquillizing
scenes which I have ever witnessed, and which was
heightened by the venerable and mouldering appearance
of this part of the castle. We contemplated the
scene for some time in silence, and it was not without
regret that we left it. We arrived at an early
hour next morning at Nyon, which is also built on
the margin of the lake. It is chiefly remarkable
for its Porcelain manufactory, and for the handsome
appearance of its castle, situated above the town.
Very near it is the Chateau de Prangin, which has
been purchased within the last few months by
Joseph
Buonaparte, who proposes to console himself in
this retirement for the loss of regal power.
His carriage passed us just before we entered Nyon;
and we were told he was on his way to another house
which he has in this neighbourhood, where he mostly
resides, to superintend the alteration he is now carrying
on at Prangin. We went to see the
chateau,
and found a considerable number of men employed about
it. It is a large building, with a tower at each
angle, and surrounds a paved court. The terrace
commands a charming prospect, and no man could desire
a more agreeable residence. We entered into conversation
with an officer of his titular majesty’s household,
who said it was very natural we should desire to see
one of the members of a family which had of late years
acted so distinguished a part in Europe. He told
us that King Joseph was extremely fond of hunting,
and intended to enclose a large portion of the land
he had purchased with a wall, in order to form a
chasse
pour les betes sauvages. This will be a great
novelty in this highly improved country, and the wall
must cost a vast sum of money.
We waited some time, but without success, in the hope
of seeing his Majesty. He will be probably much
happier in this retirement than if the armies of his
brother had succeeded in placing him on a throne which
he wanted ability to fill with honour to himself,
or with advantage to the people over whom Buonaparte
designed he should act as governor and promulgator
of his oppressive system. The Spaniards despised
Joseph extremely, and gave him the appellation
of El Rey Botelli, from his love of wine; drunkenness
being a vice to which the Spaniards are not addicted.
The hills which bound the lake near Nyon produce excellent
wine, when compared with the rest of the Pays de
Vaud. The vin de la Cote is much esteemed;
I cannot, however, with all the partiality I feel for
Switzerland, contend for the general excellence of
its wines; and although it is said, “Bacchus
amat colles,” yet I think the hills of the Pays
de Vaud will hardly contend for this favour with those
of the Rhingau and of Burgundy. Between Nyon
and Copet we saw some of the artillery of this canton
practising at a mark, and were informed that they
exercise here in turns, and that they are great proficients
in the art of taking a correct aim. It is doubtless
well to be prepared to resist any enemy who may wish
to seize and oppress one’s country; but I hope
Switzerland may not soon have to contend with the overwhelming
armies of France.