Embark on the Rhine—Political Rhapsodies of two Frenchmen—Beautiful Scenery—Gulph of Bingerlock—Blighted state of the Vines—Most distressing to the Inhabitants—Boppart—’God Save the King’—Bonfires—Size of Paris and London—St. Goar—Coblentz—Royal Saxon Guards—Ruins of Ehrenbreitstein—Andernach—The Devil’s House—Lowdersdorf—Linz—Bonn—Illuminations, Balls, &c.—End of the Picturesque Scenery—Boat driven on Shore—Walk to Cologne—A vast and gloomy City—Simile of Dr. Johnson’s—Few Country Houses on the Rhine—Rubens—His excellence as a Painter and his great Modesty—Juliers—Aix la Chapelle—Its Antiquity—Waters—Pleasant Situation—Population not equal to its Estent—Burscheid—Manufactures of Cloth, &c.—Cathedral—Sunday ill observed—Liege—A large and extremely dirty City—Booksellers—Cutlery—Distress of the Manufacturers—Thieves—Bad Money—Expeditions Public Carriage—Axiom of Rousseau—St. Tron—Chimes—Tirlemont, its much reduced Manufactures
278
CHAP. XVII.
Population of the Netherlands—Louvain—Its Public Buildings—University—Character of the Belgians—By some represented as the worst in Europe—That Statement probably overcharged—Extortion—John Bull at Paris—French Kitchens, &c.—Breweries—Roads—Taste in Gardening—Canals not an agreeable mode of Travelling—Heavy Taxes—Unsettled Political State—Vast Numbers of English at Brussels—Its Extent, Population and Appearance—The Park—Anecdote of Peter the Great—Town House—Churches—Collections of Paintings—Anecdote of Bassano—Hotels—Table d’Hote, like the Tables at Cheltenham—Expence of Living—Houses—Jurourin—Forest of Sogne—House of Correction compared with ours—Walk round the City—Fortified Towns—Sieges of Ostend, Valenciennes, Troy and Azotus—Malines—Considerations on its Decline—Its Silk—Population—Buildings—Manner of cutting the Trees near the Roads—Antwerp, its Importance—Docks—River—Riches of Belgium—Buildings at Antwerp—Accuracy of the Flemish Painters—Appearance of the Country—The Inns not equally decorated with those in Germany—Wooden Shoes
296
CHAP. XVIII.
Ghent—Its great Size—Decreased in Populalation and Consequence—Charles V.—D’Arteville—Canals—Trade—Buildings-Prison—Land and Water Travelling—Ostend and Bruges—Derivation of Bourse—Noisy and Silent Travellers—Proficiency of Foreigners in English—Taste in Bonnets—Sportsmen without Game—Courtray—Dogs Drawing—Boundary Stone of France—Custom House—Passports, Danger of being without—Lille—Fortified by Vauban—Population—Buildings—&
shy;Theatre—Society—OEconomical Residence-Remarkable View from Cassel—Berg—Fens—Canals—Dunkirk—First Impressions—The Origin of its Name—Buildings and Population—Flemish Language—Of