of Europe, and although superior to either Brussels or Antwerp in point of appearance, its population is now inferior to those cities, being reduced to 58,000:  a very inconsiderable number for a city of such extent.  Gand is celebrated as the birthplace of the Emperor Charles the Fifth.  It exhibited at different periods proofs of his attachment to a place of which he boasted being a citizen, and of the severity with which he punished the revolt of its inhabitants.  In more ancient times Gand produced another character of political importance, d’Arteville, a brewer, whose influence in this city (then one of the first in Europe) made King Edward the Third of England solicitous for his friendship; and history informs us, that one of his sons, at the head of 60,000 Gantois, carried on a war against his sovereign.

Here was concluded the celebrated treaty in 1516, called the Pacification of Gand; and it may in future times be famous for the conclusion of a treaty between England and America.

Charles the Fifth comparing the extent of Paris with that of this city, is said to have remarked, “qu’il auroit mis tout Paris dans Gand;” and, except Paris, and perhaps Cologne, it is the largest city I have seen on the Continent.  Many of the canals have some appearance of trade.  I observed many very extensive bleach-greens beyond the ancient ditches and works which surround the city.  The walls along the canal of la Coussure are the most frequented by the inhabitants.

The cathedral is a handsome structure, and contains some beautiful carving.  The church of St. Michael is also a noble and venerable edifice.  There are many other handsome churches amongst the number which the city contains, and I do not recollect ever to have been in a place where there are such a number and variety of chimes.

The town-house is an extremely large and handsome building, in the ancient taste, as indeed are most of those in the Netherlands.  The city contains many elegant private houses.  The streets are remarkably clean and spacious, but the want of an adequate population is very perceptible.  Here is a good public library, and the Botanic Garden is considered as the best in the Netherlands.  The prison built by the Empress Maria Teresa is well worthy of a visit; and the stranger cannot fail of being struck with the extreme activity and industry which prevails within its walls.  Every thing seems conducted much in the same manner, of which I had occasion to notice the advantages at Vilvorde.  There is a theatre; but those who have lately arrived from Brussels or Lisle will not be much struck with the merits of the performers.  From Gand to Ostend and Dunkirk there are no public conveyances, except along the canals.  This mode of travelling I was not inclined to adopt; and hearing that the road by Lisle, although thirty miles longer, passed through a finer country, I determined to proceed that way.  I did not hear a favourable account