There are many buildings at Antwerp, which are justly admired for their magnificence, particularly the cathedral, which, like many other churches here, was decorated by the pencil of Rubens.  The tower of the cathedral is a rich specimen of Gothic.  The general effect of this building is lessened by a number of mean houses which surround it.  The church of St. Andre contains a monument to the memory of Mary Queen of Scotland.  The town-house is a large building; its facade is 250 feet in length, and is composed of all the orders of architecture.  Many of the streets at Antwerp are tolerably well built.  I was informed that many individuals have good collections of paintings, by the chief painters which this country has produced.  It is impossible to pass through Flanders without being struck with the exactness with which its painters have represented the face of their country, and the persons of its inhabitants.  Antwerp, on the whole, has a tolerably cheerful appearance.  The promenade of Penipiere is pleasant, and much frequented by the citizens.

The country between Antwerp and Gand, presents, like the rest of Flanders, a level surface, highly cultivated, traversed by excellent roads, running in straight lines from one town to another.  I must, however, own that I have seldom traversed a more uninteresting country.  But as the reign of a prince, which affords the fewest incidents for the commemoration of the historian, is thought to be often the most fortunate for the interests of his subjects, so a country, which is passed over in silence by the tourist, as devoid of those natural beauties, which fix his attention, often contains the most land susceptible of cultivation, which best repays the labours of the husbandman, and is the most valuable to the possessor.  Many of the Flemish inns are very neat; but the traveller who has recently quitted Germany, is struck with their inferiority in point of decoration (although, perhaps, in no other respect) to those of that country, which abound with gilding, trophies, and armorial bearings, to invite the stranger, who here has a less shewy intimation of the entertainment he seeks for.  The peasants here commonly wear wooden shoes; and they who do not consider how powerful is the force of custom, are surprised how they contrive to walk so well, in such awkward and clumsy machines.

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CHAP.  XVIII.

Gand, or Ghent, is the capital of Flanders, and is one of the greatest cities in Europe as to extent; it is seven miles in circumference.  It is situated on the Scheldt and Lys, which are here joined by two smaller rivers, which with numerous canals intersect the city, and form upwards of twenty islands, that are united by above 100 bridges.  No position can be conceived more favourable for trade than this.  But Gand is greatly fallen from the once splendid situation she held amongst the cities