[Footnote 329:  Stambola, Stamboli, Stamboul, vulgar names in the east for Constantinople, is a correction and corruption of [Greek] which the Greeks used to say when going to Constantinople, i.e. to the city, by way of especial eminence above all other cities.—­Purch.]

I kept no journal all the way from Tyes to Zenan; but this I well remember, that it was exceedingly cold all that part of the journey, our lodging being the cold ground, and every morning the ground was covered with hoar frost.  I would not believe at Mokha when I was told how cold was the upper country, but experience taught me, when too late, to wish I had come better provided.  I bought fur gowns for most of my men, who were slenderly clothed, otherwise I think they would have starved.  Zenan is, as I judge, about 180 miles N.N.W. from Mokha.[330] It is in lat. 16 deg. 15’, as I observed by an instrument I made there.  We were fifteen days between Mokha and Zenan.  The 5th of January, 1611, two hours before day, we came within two miles of Zenan, where we had to sit on the bare ground till day-light, and were much pinched by the cold, and so benumbed that we could hardly stand.  Every morning the ground was covered with hoar frost, and in Zenan we have had ice an inch thick in one night, which I could not have believed unless I had seen it.

[Footnote 330:  See a former note, in which its geographical relation to Mokha is given on the authority of our latest and best maps.—­E.]

About a mile from the town, we were met by the subasha, or sheriff, with at least 200 shot, accompanied by drums and trumpets.  We were now drawn up in single file, or one behind the other, at some distance, to make the greater shew, our men having their gowns taken from them, and being forced to march on foot in their thin and ragged suits.  The soldiers led the way, after whom went our men one by one, our trumpeters being next before me, and commanded by the aga to sound, but I forbade them.  After our trumpeters, came Mr Femell and I on horseback; and lastly, came the aga riding in triumph, with a richly caparisoned spare horse led before him.  In this order we were led through the heart of the city to the castle, all the way being so thronged with people that we could hardly get through them.  At the first gate there was a good guard of armed soldiers; at the second were two great pieces of cannon on carriages.  After passing this gate, we came into a spacious court yard, twice as long as the Exchange at London.  The soldiers discharged their pieces at this gate, and placed themselves, among many others there before them, on the two sides, leaving a lane for us to walk through.  Mr Femell and I alighted at this gate, and placed ourselves on one side along with our men, but he and I were soon ordered to attend upon the pacha, it being their divan day, or meeting of the council.  At the upper end of the court-yard, we went up a stair of some twelve steps, at the top of which two great men came and held me by the wrists, which they griped very hard, and led me in this manner to the pacha, who was seated in a long spacious gallery, many great men standing on each side of him, and others stood on each side all along this gallery, making a good shew, the floor being all covered with Turkey carpets.