A fort was built upon a little hill commanding the settlement, and life began in good earnest.  What followed?  Mexico threw off the Spanish yoke; California was hence forth subject to Mexico alone.  The news spread; vessels gathered in the harbor, and enormous profits were realized on the sale and shipment of the hides of wild cattle lately roaming upon a thousand hills.

Then came gradual changes in the government; they culminated in 1846 when Captain Mervin, at the head of two hundred and fifty men, raised the Stars and Stripes over Monterey, and a proclamation was read declaring California a portion of the United States.

The Rev. Walter Colton, once chaplain of the United States frigate Congress, was appointed first alcalde; and the result was the erection of a stone courthouse, which was long the chief ornament of the town; and, somewhat later, the publication of Alcalde Colton’s highly interesting volume, entitled “Three Years in California.”

II.

In 1829 Captain Robinson, the author of “Life in California” in the good old mission days, wrote thus of his first sight of Monterey:  “The sun had just risen, and, glittering through the lofty pines that crowned the summit of the eastern hills, threw its light upon the lawn beneath.  On our left was the Presidio, with its chapel dome and towering flag-staff in conspicuous elevation.  On the right, upon a rising ground, was seen the castillo, or fort, surmounted by some ten or a dozen cannon.  The intervening space between these two points was enlivened by the hundred scattered dwellings that form the town, and here and there groups of cattle grazing.

“After breakfast G. and myself went on shore, on a visit to the Commandant, Don Marian Estrada, whose residence stood in the central part of the town, in the usual route from the beach to the Presidio.  In external appearance, notwithstanding it was built of adobe—­brick made by the mixture of soft mud and straw, moulded and dried in the sun,—­it was not displeasing; for the outer walls had been plastered and whitewashed, giving it a cheerful and inviting aspect.  Like all dwellings in the warm countries of America, it was but one story in height, covered with tiles, and occupied, in its entire premises, an extensive square.

“Our Don was standing at his door; and as we approached, he sallied forth to meet us with true Castilian courtesy; embraced G., shook me cordially by the hand, then bowed us ceremoniously into the sala.  Here we seated ourselves upon a sofa at his right.  During conversation cigarritos passed freely; and, although thus early in the day, a proffer was made of refreshments.”

In 1835 R.H.  Dana, Jr., the author of “Two Years before the Mast,” found Monterey but little changed; some of the cannon were unmounted, but the Presidio was still the centre of life on the Pacific coast, and the town was apparently thriving.  Day after day the small boats plied between ship and shore, and the population gave themselves up to the delights of shopping.  Shopping was done on shipboard; each ship was a storehouse of attractive and desirable merchandise, and the little boats were kept busy all day long bearing customers to and fro.