In February, 1904, Bernard landed in Marseilles after a trip to the Orient.  A chance word told him that there had been installed an electric tramway between Marseilles and Aix.  Instantly the name of Cezanne came to his memory; he had known for some years that the old painter was in Aix.  He resolved to visit him, and fearing a doubtful reception he carried with him a pamphlet he had written in 1889, an eulogium of the painter.  On the way he asked his fellow-travellers for Cezanne’s address, but in vain; the name was unknown.  In Aix he met with little success.  Evidently the fame of the recluse had not reached his birthplace.  At last Bernard was advised to go to the Mayor’s office, where he would find an electoral list.  Among the voters he discovered a Paul Cezanne, who was born January 19, 1839, who lived at 25 Rue Boulegon.  Bernard lost no time and reached a simple dwelling house with the name of the painter on the door.  He rang.  The door opened.  He entered and mounted a staircase.  Ahead of him, slowly toiling upward, was an old man in a cloak and carrying a portfolio.  It was Cezanne.  After he had explained the reason for his visit, the old painter cried:  “You are Emile Bernard!  You are a maker of biographies!  Signac”—­an impressionist—­“told me of you.  You are also a painter?” Bernard, who had been painting for years, and was a friend of Signac, was nonplussed at his sudden literary reputation, but he explained the matter to Cezanne, who, however, was in doubt until he saw later the work of his admirer.

He had another atelier a short distance from the town; he called it “The Motive.”  There, facing Mount Sainte-Victoire, he painted every afternoon in the open; the majority of his later landscapes were inspired by the views in that charming valley.  Bernard was so glad to meet Cezanne that he moved to Aix.

In Cezanne’s studio at Aix Bernard encountered some extraordinary studies in flower painting and three death heads; also monstrous nudes, giant-like women whose flesh appeared parboiled.  On the streets Cezanne was always annoyed by boys or beggars; the former were attracted by his bohemian exterior and to express their admiration shouted at him or else threw stones; the beggars knew their man to be easy and were rewarded by small coin.  Although Cezanne lived like a bachelor, his surviving sister saw that his household was comfortable.  His wife and son lived in Paris and often visited him.  He was rich; his father, a successful banker at Aix, had left him plenty of money; but a fanatic on the subject of art, ceaselessly searching for new tonal combinations, he preferred a hermit’s existence.  In Aix he was considered eccentric though harmless.  His pride was doubled by a morbid shyness.  Strangers he avoided.  So sensitive was he that once when he stumbled over a rock Bernard attempted to help him by seizing his arm.  A terrible scene ensued.  The painter, livid with fright, cursed the unhappy young Parisian and finally ran away.  An explanation came when the housekeeper told Bernard that her master was a little peculiar.  Early in life he had been kicked by some rascal and ever afterward was nervous.  He was very irritable and not in good health.