(l2) then examined for all hair and impurities to be picked off by “burlers.”  After this follows

(13) fulling, or felting, which gives woollen goods that substance which distinguishes them.  Every hair of wool is saw-edged, and this by beating will mass together.  Superfine cloth with a thick solution of soap spread between each layer, and, folded into many piles, is exposed to the long continued action of revolving wooden hammers on wheels, three separate times, for four hours each time.  This process diminishes both breadth and length nearly one half.

After “fulling” cloth is woolly and rough; to improve the appearance it is first

(14) teazled—­that is, raked with cylinders covered with the round prickly heads of the teazle plant.  Many attempts have been made to invent wire and other brushes for the same purpose, but hitherto nothing has been found more effective and economical than the teazle.  To apply them the cloth is stretched on cloth beams, and made to move in one direction, while the teazle cylinders turn in another.  When the ends of the fibres have been thus raised, they are

(15) sheared or clipped, in order to produce the same effect as clipping the rough coat of a horse.  Formerly this operation was performed by hand.  The introduction of machinery created formidable riots in the west of England.  At present the operation is performed with great perfection and rapidity, by more than one process.

When the cloth has been raised and sheared once, it is in the best possible condition for wear; but in order to give superfine cloth beauty, it is sheared several times, then exposed to the action of steam, and at the same time brushed with cylinder brushes.  Other operations, of minor importance, are carried on for the purpose of giving smoothness and gloss.  It may be observed that a brilliant appearance does not always, in modern manufactures, betoken the best cloth.  An eminent woollen manufacturer having been asked what cloth he would recommend for wear and warmth to a backwoodsman, answered quickly, “Nothing can wear like a good blanket.”  The small manufacturers generally dispose of their cloth in the rough state.

The progress of machinery has called into existence a great number of factories, especially in worsted and mixed stuffs, has given value to many descriptions of wool formerly valueless, and, coupled with the repeal of the duty, brought into the market many kinds unknown a few years ago.  “Properties once prized,” Mr. Southey remarks in his Essay on Wools, “have given way to some other property upon which machinery can better operate, and yield more desirable results.  Spanish wool, once deemed indispensable, is now little sought after.  It is supplanted by our colonial wool, which is steadily advancing in quality and quantity, while angora goat, and alpaca wools are forcing their way into and enhancing the value of our stuff trade.”