CHAPTER XI

Quality in eggs [*]

[Footnote *:  Much of the matter in this and the following chapter is taken from the writer’s report of the egg trade of the United States, published as Circular 140 of the Bureau of Annual Industry of the U.S.  Department of Agriculture.  In the present volume, however, I have inserted some additional matters which policy forbade that I discuss in a Federal document.]

Because of the readiness with which eggs spoil, the term “fresh” has become synonymous with the idea of desirable quality in eggs.  As a matter of fact the actual age of an egg is quite subordinate to other factors which affect the quality.

An egg forty-eight hours old that has lain in a wheat shock during a warm July rain, would probably be swarming with bacteria and be absolutely unfit for food.  Another egg stored eight months in a first-class cold storage room would be perfectly wholesome.

Grading Eggs.

Eggs are among the most difficult of food products to grade, because each egg must be considered separately and because the actual substance of the egg cannot be examined without destroying the egg.  From external appearance, eggs can be selected for size, color, cleanliness of shell and freedom from cracks.  This is the common method of grading in early spring when the eggs are uniformly of good quality.

Later in the season the egg candle is used.  In the technical sense any kind of a light may be used as an egg candle.  A sixteen candle power electric lamp is the most desirable.  The light is enclosed in a dark box, and the eggs are held against openings about the size of a half dollar.  The candler holds the egg large end upward, and gives it a quick turn in order to view all sides, and to cause the contents to whirl within the shell.  To the expert this process reveals the actual condition of the egg to an extent that the novice can hardly realize.  The art of egg candling cannot be readily taught by worded description.  One who wishes to learn egg candling had best go to an adept in the art, or he may begin unaided and by breaking many eggs learn the essential points.

Eggs when laid vary considerably in size, but otherwise are a very uniform product.  The purpose of the egg in nature requires that this be the case, because the contents of the egg must be so proportioned as to form the chick without surplus or waste, and this demands a very constant chemical composition.

For food purposes all fresh eggs are practically equal.  The tint of the yolk varies a little, being a brighter yellow when green food has been supplied the hens.  Occasionally, when hens eat unusual quantities of green food, the yolk show a greenish brown tint, and appear dark to the candler.  Such eggs are called grass eggs; they are perfectly wholesome.

An opinion exists among egg men that the white of the spring egg is of finer quality and will stand up better than summer eggs.  This is true enough of commercial eggs, but the difference is chiefly, if not entirely, due to external factors that act upon the egg after it is laid.