But if one should allow this first impression of Calcutta—­an impression in which good eating and the general pampering of the flesh seem to be the most prominent features—­to lead one into the belief that here is nothing but money-making and grossness, one would commit a serious mistake.  It is among the rich babous, or commercial natives, of Calcutta that the remarkable reformatory movement known as “Young India” has had its origin, and it would really seem that the very same qualities of patience, of prudence, of foresight and of good sense which have helped these babous to accumulate their wealth are now about being applied to the nobler and far more difficult work of lifting their countrymen out of the degradations of old outworn customs and faiths upon some higher plane of reasonable behavior.

“In truth,” said Bhima Gandharva to me one day as were taking our customary stroll along the Esplanade, “you have now been from the west of this country to the east of it.  You have seen the Past of India:  I wish that you may have at least a glimpse of its Future.  Here comes a young babou of my acquaintance, to whom I will make you known.  He is an enthusiastic member of ‘Young India:’  he has received a liberal education at one of the numerous schools which his order has so liberally founded in modern years, and you will, I am convinced, be pleased with the wisdom and moderation of his sentiments.”

Just as I was reaching out my hand to take that of the babou, in compliance with Bhima’s introduction, an enormous adjutant—­one of the great pouched cranes (arghilahs) that stalk about Calcutta under protection of the law, and do much of the scavenger-work of the city—­walked directly between us, eyeing each of us with his red round eyes in a manner so ludicrous that we all broke forth in a fit of laughter that lasted for several minutes, while the ungainly bird stalked away with much the stolid air of one who has seen something whereof he thinks but little.

The babou addressed me in excellent English, and after some preliminary inquiries as to my stay in Calcutta, accompanied by hospitable invitations, he gradually began, in response to my evident desire, to talk of the hopes and fears of the new party.

“It is our great misfortune,” said he, “that we have here to do with that portion of my countrymen which is perhaps most deeply sunk in the mire of ancient custom.  We have begun by unhesitatingly leading in the front ourselves whenever any disagreeable consequences are to be borne by reason of our infringement of the old customs.  Take, for example, the problem of the peculiar position of women among the Hindus.  Perhaps”—­and here the babou’s voice grew very grave and earnest—­“the human imagination is incapable of conceiving a lot more wretched than that of the Hindu widow.  By immemorial tradition she could escape it only through the flames of the satti, the funeral-pile upon which she could burn herself with the dead body of