As you approach the Pali, the mountain becomes a sheer precipice for some miles, broken only by the gorge of the Pali, up which, if you are prudent, you will walk, letting your horses follow with the guide—­though Hawaiian horsemen ride both up and down, and have been known to gallop down the stone-paved and slippery steep.  As you look up at these tall, gloomy precipices, you will see one of the peculiarities of a Sandwich Island landscape.  The rocks are not bare, but covered from crown to base with moss and ferns; and these cling so closely to the surface that to your eye they seem to be but a short, close-textured green fuzz.  In fact, these great rocks, thus adorned, reminded me constantly of the rock scenery in such operas as Fra Diavolo; the dark green being of a shade which I do not remember to have seen before in nature, though it is not uncommon in theatrical scenery.

The grass remains green, except in the dry districts, all the year round; and the common grass of the Islands is the maniania, a fine creeping grass which covers the ground with a dense velvety mat; and where it is kept short by sheep makes an admirable springy lawn.  It has a fine deep color and bears drought remarkably well; and it is the favorite pasture grass of the Islands.  I do not think it as fattening as the alfilleria of Southern California or our own timothy or blue grass; but it is a valuable grass to the stockmen, because it eats out every other and less valuable kind.

On your journey around Oahu you need a guide who can speak some English; you must take with you on the pack-mule provisions for the journey; and it is well to have a blanket for each of your party.  You will sleep each night in a native house, unless, as is very likely to be the case, you have invitations to stop at plantation houses on your way.  At the native houses they will kill a chicken for you, and cook taro; but they have no other supplies.  You can usually get cocoa-nuts, whose milk is very wholesome and refreshing.  The journey is like a somewhat prolonged picnic; the air is mild and pure; and you need no heavy clothing, for you are sure of bright sunny weather.

For your excursions near Honolulu, and for the adventure I have described, you can hire horses; though if you mean to stay a month or two it is better to buy.  A safe and good horse, well saddled and bridled, brought to you every morning at the hotel, costs you a dollar a day.  In that case you have no care or responsibility for the animal.  But unless there are men-of-war in port you can buy a sufficiently good riding-horse for from twelve to twenty-five dollars, and get something of your investment back when you leave; and you can buy saddles and all riding-gear cheaply in Honolulu.  The maintenance of a horse in town costs not over fifty cents per day.