He gave me a delightful waking, and his friendliness was unwearied; but I fear he did not enter upon the quest for a ship for me in a very solemn spirit.  He had been at sea himself, but had left off at the age of twenty-five, finding he could earn his living on shore in a much more agreeable manner.  He was related to an incredible number of Marseilles well-to-do families of a certain class.  One of his uncles was a ship-broker of good standing, with a large connection amongst English ships; other relatives of his dealt in ships’ stores, owned sail-lofts, sold chains and anchors, were master-stevedores, caulkers, shipwrights.  His grandfather (I think) was a dignitary of a kind, the Syndic of the Pilots.  I made acquaintances amongst these people, but mainly amongst the pilots.  The very first whole day I ever spent on salt water was by invitation, in a big half-decked pilot-boat, cruising under close reefs on the look-out, in misty, blowing weather, for the sails of ships and the smoke of steamers rising out there, beyond the slim and tall Planier lighthouse cutting the line of the wind-swept horizon with a white perpendicular stroke.  They were hospitable souls, these sturdy Provencal seamen.  Under the general designation of le petit ami de Baptistin I was made the guest of the Corporation of Pilots, and had the freedom of their boats night or day.  And many a day and a night too did I spend cruising with these rough, kindly men, under whose auspices my intimacy with the sea began.  Many a time “the little friend of Baptistin” had the hooded cloak of the Mediterranean sailor thrown over him by their honest hands while dodging at night under the lee of Chateau d’If on the watch for the lights of ships.  Their sea-tanned faces, whiskered or shaved, lean or full, with the intent wrinkled sea-eyes of the pilot-breed, and here and there a thin gold hoop at the lobe of a hairy ear, bent over my sea-infancy.  The first operation of seamanship I had an opportunity of observing was the boarding of ships at sea, at all times, in all states of the weather.  They gave it to me to the full.  And I have been invited to sit in more than one tall, dark house of the old town at their hospitable board, had the bouillabaisse ladled out into a thick plate by their high-voiced, broad-browed wives, talked to their daughters—­thick-set girls, with pure profiles, glorious masses of black hair arranged with complicated art, dark eyes, and dazzlingly white teeth.

I had also other acquaintances of quite a different sort.  One of them, Madame Delestang, an imperious, handsome lady in a statuesque style, would carry me off now and then on the front seat of her carriage to the Prado, at the hour of fashionable airing.  She belonged to one of the old aristocratic families in the south.  In her haughty weariness she used to make me think of Lady Dedlock in Dickens’s “Bleak House,” a work of the master for which I have such an admiration, or rather such an intense and unreasoning affection, dating from the days of my childhood, that its very weaknesses are more precious to me than the strength of other men’s work.  I have read it innumerable times, both in Polish and in English; I have read it only the other day, and, by a not very surprising inversion, the Lady Dedlock of the book reminded me strongly of the belle Madame Delestang.