physically as well as morally—and inundated
with tolerable certainty every year by the rising
of the Tiber. The dilapidated and filthy streets
of the other parts of old papal Rome used to look
clean and spruce by comparison with the lurid and darksome
dens of the Ghetto. There are Ghettos in London—streets
where the children of Israel congregate, not in obedience
to any law old or new, but drawn together by mutual
attraction and similarity of occupation. And the
occupations there are very much of the same nature
as those pursued in the Ghetto of Rome—the
buying and selling of old clothes and second-hand
property of all sorts, the preparation and distribution
of fried fish, and here and there a little usury.
But the genius loci here impresses on the trade
in discarded odds and ends a peculiar character of
its own. A much larger number of old pictures
figure among the hoards of useless “property”
than would be the case elsewhere. The constant
decay of noble and once wealthy families furnishes
to the second-hand market a much more abundant supply
of the remains of articles that were once rich and
rare in their day—old damask hangings torn
from walls that have witnessed the princely revelry
of many a generation; rich brocades and stuffs that
have made part of the moving pageant in the same saloons;
lace of the finest and rarest from the vestments of
deceased prelates, whose heirs, as regards such property,
have probably been their serving-men; purple and scarlet
articles from the wardrobes of cardinals and princes
of the Church; and odds and ends of various sorts
widely different in kind from aught that could be
found in similar repositories in other cities.
And another specialty of the Roman Ghetto is that it
is not altogether easy to obtain a sight of the miscellaneous
treasures of this rag-fair. Partly because the
low-lying and narrow lanes of the Ghetto are too murky
and filthy to permit of the advantageous exposure
of the merchandise in question; partly, probably, from
an habitual consciousness on the part of the dealers
that the details of their traffic in all its particulars
are not of a nature to be safely submitted to the
public eye; partly from that secretiveness which is
the natural result of living for many generations from
father to son under the tyranny of an alien race,
whose bitterly hostile prejudices were but little
restrained by law or justice; and partly also, no
doubt, from the genuine Roman laziness, which in its
perfection is capable of overriding even Jewish keenness
of trade,—the Jew brokers of the Ghetto
are often unwilling to show their hidden stores to
the first comer. Some amount of diplomacy and
some show of the probability of effecting an advantageous
deal must be had recourse to in order to attain the
purpose of the explorer.