Steam vents beside Volcanic Lake................................ 326

Cocopah Mountain, Mexico........................................ 326

Ten miles from the Gulf of California.  Coming up on a
twenty-foot tide.............................................. 332

Sunset on the lower Colorado River.............................. 332

[Illustration]

THROUGH THE GRAND CANYON FROM WYOMING TO MEXICO

CHAPTER I

PREPARATIONS AT GREEN RIVER CITY, WYOMING

Early in September of 1911 my brother Emery and I landed in Green River City, Wyoming, ready for the launching of our boats on our long-planned trip down the Green and Colorado rivers.

For ten years previous to this time we had lived at the Grand Canyon of Arizona, following the work of scenic photography.  In a general way we had covered much of the country adjacent to our home, following our pack animals over ancient and little-used trails, climbing the walls of tributary canyons, dropping over the ledges with ropes when necessary, always in search of the interesting and unusual.

After ten years of such work many of our plans in connection with a pictorial exploration of the Grand Canyon were crowned with success.  Yet all the while our real ambition remained unsatisfied.

We wanted to make the “Big Trip”—­as we called it; in other words, we wanted a pictorial record of the entire series of canyons on the Green and Colorado rivers.

The time had come at last, after years of hoping, after long months of active preparation.

We stood at the freight window of the station at Green River City asking for news of our boats.  They had arrived and could be seen in their crates shoved away in a corner.  It was too late to do anything with them that day; so we let them remain where they were, and went out to look over the town.

Green River City proved to be a busy little place noisy with switch engines, crowded with cattle-men and cowboys, and with hunting parties outfitting for the Jackson Hole country.  A thoroughly Western town of the better sort, with all the picturesqueness of people and surroundings that the name implies.

It was busier than usual, even, that evening; for a noisy but good-natured crowd had gathered around the telegraph office, eager for news of a wrestling match then taking place in an Eastern city.  As we came up they broke into a cheer at the news that the American wrestler had defeated his foreign opponent.  There was a discussion as to what constituted the “toe-hold,” three boys ran an impromptu foot-race, there was some talk on the poor condition of the range, and the party began to break up.

The little excitement over, we returned to the hotel; feeling, in spite of our enthusiasm, somewhat lonesome and very much out of place.  Our sleep that night was fitful and broken by dreams wherein the places we had known were strangely interwoven with these new scenes and events.  Through it all we seemed to hear the roar of the Rio Colorado.