We passed a dredge that evening and saw a man at work with a team and scoop shovel, the method being to scoop up the gravel and sand, then dump it in an iron car.  This was then pulled by the horses to the top of a derrick up a sloping track and dumped.  A stream of water pumped up from the river mixed with the gravel, the entire mass descended a long zigzagging chute.  We paused a few minutes only and did not examine the complicated process of separating the mineral from the gravel.  This dredge had been recently installed.  We camped early, half a mile below the dredge.

Emery had been feeling poorly all this day.  He blamed his indisposition to having eaten too many good things when in Vernal—­a break in training, as it were.  This was our excuse for a short run that day.  I played nurse and gave him some simple remedy from the little supply that we carried; and, after he was in his sleeping bag, I filled some hot-water bags for the first time on the trip, and soon had him feeling quite comfortable.

A hard wind came up that night, and a little rain fell.  I had a busy half-hour keeping our camp from being blown away.  The storm was of short duration, and all was soon quiet again.  On the following morning Emery felt so good that I had a hard time in keeping up with him and I wondered if he would ever stop.  Towards evening, after a long pull, we neared the reservation of the Uinta Utes, and saw a few Indians camped away from the river.  Here, again, were the cottonwood bottoms, banked by the barren, gravelly hills.  We had been informed that there was a settlement called Ouray, some distance down the river, and we were anxious to reach it before night.  But the river was sluggish, with devious and twisting channels, and it was dark when we finally landed at the Ouray ferry.

CHAPTER IX

CANYON OF DESOLATION

Ouray, Utah, consisted of a large store to supply the wants of the Indians and ranchers, a small hotel, and a few dwellings.  The agency proper was located some distance up the Uinta River, which stream emptied into the Green, just below Ouray.

Supper was taken at the hotel, after which we visited a young man in charge of the store, looking over his curios and listening to tales of his life here among these Indians.  They were peaceable enough now, but in years gone by were a danger to be reckoned with.  We slept in our own beds close to our boats by the river.

The following morning, when we were ready to leave, a small crowd gathered, a few Indians among them.  Most of the Indians were big, fat, and sleepy-looking.  Apparently they enjoyed the care of the government.  A mile below we passed several squaws and numerous children under some trees, while on a high mound stood a lone buck Indian looking at us as we sped by, but without a single movement that we could see.  He still stood there as we passed from sight a mile below.  It might be interesting if one could know just what was in his mind as he watched us.