One canyon entered from the left, level on the bottom, and about one hundred feet wide; it might be a means of outlet from this canyon, but it is doubtful, for the marble has a way of ending abruptly and dropping sheer, with a polished surface that is impossible to climb.

New Year’s Eve was spent in this section.  The camp was exceptionally good.  A square-sided, oblong section of rock about fifty feet long had fallen forward from the base of the cliff.  This left a cave-like opening which was closed at one end with our dark-room tent.  High water had placed a sandy floor, now thoroughly dry, in the bottom.  Under the circumstances we could hardly ask for anything better.  Of driftwood there was none, and our camp-fires were made of mesquite which grew in ledges in the rocks; in one case gathered with a great deal of labour on the shore opposite our camp, and ferried across on our boats.  If a suitable camp was found after 3.30 P.M., we kept it, rather than run the risk of not finding another until after dark.

Another day, January 1, 1912, brought us to the end of this gorge and into a wider and more open canyon, with the country above covered with volcanic peaks and cinder cones.  Blow-holes had broken through the canyon walls close to the top of the gorge, pouring streams of lava down its sides, filling the bottom of the canyon with several hundred feet of lava.  This condition extended down the canyon for twenty miles or more.  Judging by the amount of lava the eruption must have continued for a great while.  Could one imagine a more wonderful sight—­the turbulent stream checked by the fire flood from above!  What explosions and rending of rocks there must have been when the two elements met.  The river would be backed up for a hundred miles!  Each would be shoved on from behind!  There was no escape!  They must fight it out until one or the other conquered.  But the fire could not keep up forever, and, though triumphant for a period, it finally succumbed, and the stream proceeded to cut down to the original level.

Two miles below the first lava flow we saw what we took to be smoke and hurried down wondering if we would find a prospector or a cattle rustler.  We agreed, if it was the latter, to let them off if they would share with us.  But the smoke turned out to be warm springs, one of them making quite a stream which fell twenty feet into the river.  Here in the river was a cataract, called Lava Falls, so filled with jagged pieces of the black rock that a portage was advisable.  The weather had not moderated any in the last week, and we were in the water a great deal as we lifted and lined the boats over the rocks at the edge of the rapids.  We would work in the water until numbed with the cold, then would go down to the warm springs and thaw out for a while.  This was a little quicker than standing by the fire, but the relief was only temporary.  This portage was finished the next morning.

Another portage was made this same day, and the wide canyon where Major Powell found some Indian gardens was passed in the afternoon.  The Indians were not at home when the Major called.  His party felt they were justified in helping themselves to some pumpkins or squash, for their supplies were very low, and they could not go out to a settlement—­as we expected to do in a day or two—­and replenish them.