of make-believe pomposity are followed up by the strangest
revelations wherever the adventurer sets his foot.
Going from Cape Haytien to the citadel and “Sans-Souci”
palace of Christophe, the traveler is charged “two
thousand dollars” by the drunken negro guide,
and “a dollar” by the sable sentry of whom
he happens to ask a question. The town of Cape
Haytien he finds surrounded by the rotting bodies
of dead animals; the ruins of fine old country-seats
are occupied by filthy black squatters; the new houses
going up are built by the process of throwing single
bricks one after the other from the ground to the
bricklayer. Squalor and braggadocio he finds everywhere.
The general who has given him a permit to inspect Christophe’s
stronghold sends a messenger secretly in advance with
instructions reversing his order: the commandant
refuses lodgings to “the American who has come
to take the fort.” Some friends of the consul
who had received a general invitation to accompany
the excursion had previously backed out, because the
stranger was an American, a reputed commissioner,
and very unsafe company. Mr. Hazard could only
obtain permission to swing his hammock in the house
of a negress; a citizen who pointed him out to the
others made the signs of throat-cutting; and he left
behind him the filibustering reputation of the American
who came to take the citadel. Naturally disgusted
by this time, the author renounced his intention of
further land-traveling, and passed in a steamer around
the western end of the island to Port-au-Prince.
Here he was delighted with the entertainment of our
present minister to Hayti, Mr. Bassett, a Philadelphia
quadroon of uncommon qualities and collegiate education.
“Some of my most delightful hours,” says
the writer, “were spent enjoying the kind hospitalities
of Mr. Bassett and his lady.” He represents
the minister as living in a palace built for the emperor
Soulouque, and playing a part in the revolutionary
conflicts of the island similar to that of Minister
Washburne in revolutionary Paris. The brave conduct
of Mr. Bassett during the brief presidency of the
unhappy Salnave deserves mention. About three
thousand humble blacks, frightened by the rebellion
of the “aristocracy,” fled to the protection
of our flag, and the minister, though shot at in the
streets and without the support of a single man-of-war,
saved and fed them all. It seems to be not much
to its credit that our nation, though very tender
of Hayti when the question of Dominican annexation
is raised, has never reimbursed its ambassador for
this drain on his private purse for the succor of Haytian
lives. With Port-au-Prince, where the writer
awaited his steamer’s departure for the United
States, the journey terminates. The traveler’s
evident disgust with almost every manifestation of
Haytian attempts at self-government is balanced by
his rapture with the natural features of the other
end of the island. He writes as an ardent annexationist—not
so much from the humanitarian view of President White