The principal, and most important, of all the lesser punishments, however, is flogging.  It is that which has most effect on the people, and it is certainly by far the most painful.  It is carried out in many ways, according to the gravity of the crime committed.  The simpler and milder form is with a small bamboo rod, the strokes being administered on the hands, on the bare back or on the thighs, a punishment mostly for young people.  Next in severity, is that with the round stick—­a heavy implement—­by which it was always a marvel to me, that all the bones of the body were not smashed, judging from the fearful blows which the powerful flogger bestowed on the poor wretches who lay stretched out flat, and face downward, on a sort of bench, to which they were fastened, and on which they generally fainted from pain after the first few strokes had been given.  This is considered a low and degrading way of being flogged, and is chiefly limited to people of the lowest standing in society.  The implement most generally in use in this line of sport is the paddle or flat board, a beating with which, when once received, is likely to be remembered for ever.  I shall try to describe the way in which I saw it done one day in Seoul.

I was walking along the main street when I saw a kisso (soldier), with his hands tied behind his back, being led with a rope and followed by about a score of cavalry soldiers in their picturesque hats and red tassels.  A magistrate, in his long white gown and with a huge pair of circular spectacles on his nose, headed the procession.  I asked a passer-by what they were going to do, and was soon informed, both by action and by word of mouth, that the man was going to be flogged, whereupon I at once slackened my pace, and joined the procession, that I might, if possible, see how they did this sort of thing in military circles.  I had already seen ordinary floggings with the bamboo and the stick, but what attracted me more especially on this occasion, was a long wooden board which a soldier was carrying, and with which, the man who was walking by my side said, they were going to beat him.  It was a plank about ten feet long, one foot wide and half an inch thick, probably less, and therefore very flexible.  After walking for a short distance, the procession at last made a halt.  The man to be performed upon, looked almost unconcerned; and, save that he was somewhat pensive, showed no signs of fear.  His hands having been untied, he at once took off his hat—­for in the land of Cho-sen a man does not mind losing his life as long as his hat is not spoilt!  His padded trousers were pulled down so as to leave his legs bare, and he was then made to lie flat on the pebbly ground, using his folded arms as a sort of rest for his head.  The magistrate, with his pompous strides, having found a suitable spot, squatted down on his heels, a servant immediately handing to him his long-caned pipe.  The soldiers, silent and grave, then formed a circle,