SATURDAY 5 MARCH 1803

On laying down the plan of this extensive bay, I was somewhat surprised to see the great similarity of its form to one marked near the same situation in the Dutch chart.  It bears no name; but as not a doubt remains of Tasman, or perhaps some earlier navigator, having explored it, I have given it the appellation of the land in which it is situate, and call it ARNHEM BAY.  So far as an extent of secure anchoring ground is concerned, it equals any harbour within my knowledge; there being more than a hundred square miles of space fit for the reception of ships, and the bottom seemed to be every where good.  Of the inducements to visit Arnhem Bay, not much can be said.  Wood is plentiful at all the shores, and the stream which ran down the hills at Mallison’s Island would have supplied us conveniently with water, had it been wanted; but in three months afterwards it would probably be dried up.  In the upper parts of the bay the shores are low, and over-run with mangroves in many places; but near the entrance they may be approached by a ship, and there are beaches for hauling the seine, where, however, we had not much success.

We saw no other stone on the low shores than iron ore, similar to that found in the upper part of Melville Bay, and on Point Middle in Caledon Bay; and it seems probable, that iron runs through the space of country comprehended between the heads of the three bays, although the exterior shores and the hills be either granitic, argillaceous, or of sand stone.  The flat country where the iron ore is found, seems to afford a good soil, well-clothed with grass and wood, much superior to that where granite or sand stone prevails; this I judge from what was seen near the heads of the bays, for our excursions inland were necessarily very confined, and for myself, I did not quit the water side at Arnhem Bay, being disabled by scorbutic ulcers on my feet.

This country does not seem to be much peopled, though traces of men were found wherever we landed; in the woods were several species of birds, mostly of the parrot kind, and the marks of kangaroo were numerous, as at Melville Bay.  These circumstances would be in favour of any colony which might be established in the neighbourhood; but should such a step come to be contemplated, it would be highly necessary, in the first place, to see what the country is in the dry season, from June to November; for it is to be apprehended that the vegetation may then be dried up, and the sources of fresh water almost entirely fail.

The middle of the entrance into Arnhem Bay is in latitude 12 deg. 11’ south, and longitude 136 deg. 3’ east.  Azimuths taken on board the ship, when at anchor in the north-eastern part of the bay and the head E. by N., gave 0 deg. 48’ east variation, which corrected to the meridian, would be 2 deg. 31’ east; but the most allowed to the bearings on shore is 1 deg. 40’, and the least 1 deg., no greater difference being produced by the iron stone upon which some were taken.  From general observation, the time of high water was nearly the same as in Malay Road, or about eight hours after the moon’s passage, and the rise seemed to be six or eight feet.