A hard, close-grained sand stone forms the basis of the north-east point of Vanderlin’s Island; but the hummocks and the upper rocks are calcareous, similar to Inspection Hill at the head of the Gulph.  The soil is very sandy, and poorly clothed with vegetation; though in the more central parts of the island the hills seemed to be moderately well covered with wood.  There were foot marks of men, dogs, and kangaroos, and tracks of turtle near the shore; but none of the men, nor of the animals, were seen.

We got under way soon after ten o’clock with a breeze from the north-westward, and were obliged to make a long stretch to sea before Cape Vanderlin could be weathered.  Towards evening we came in with a small reef, lying N. 40 deg.  E. two-and-half miles from the extremity of the cape; and this, with the lateness of the hour, making it hazardous to run into the new opening, we anchored at dusk, under the easternmost of the two small islands in the offing, in 6 fathoms, coral sand and rock.  The white beach here seemed to be so favourable a situation for turtle, that an officer with a party of men was sent on shore to watch them; but he returned immediately, on finding the beach to be not sand, but pieces of coral bleached white by the sun, which bore no traces of turtle.

[NORTH COAST. PELLEW’S GROUP.]

THURSDAY 16 DECEMBER 1802

I landed early in the morning, with the botanical gentlemen, to take bearings; and amongst them set the craggy north end of the western island., which I call Cape Pellew, at S. 87 deg.  W., distant three or four miles.  It lies in latitude 16 deg. 301/2’, longitude 137 deg. 2’, and there is a rock lying half a mile off to the N. E.; indeed these two small isles and another rock may be considered as also lying off, and appertaining to it.  The basis of the easternmost and largest isle was found to be the same close-grained sand stone as at Vanderlin’s Island; but the surface consisted of loose pieces of coral, with a slight intermixture of vegetable soil, producing a few shrubs and small bushes:  there were no traces either of men or turtle.

On our return to the ship, we steered for the opening between the Capes Vanderlin and Pellew; the wind was from the north-westward, and this being now the most settled quarter for it, we anchored under the western island, in 41/2 fathoms soft bottom, half a mile from the shore; with the extremes bearing N. 25 deg.  E. one mile, and S. 23 deg.  W. two miles.  An outer rocky islet near Cape Vanderlin bore N. 70 deg.  E., and a small island within half a mile of the ship covered five points in the south-eastern quarter; to the south there was very little land visible, but no sea was to be feared from that side; and the sole direction in which we were not sheltered, was between N. N. E. and E. N. E.