More poling across the lake, and then another little canal, also constructed since the diminishing of the water of the lake (which once came close to the city), and along which our Indians towed us.  Then came a short ride, which brought us to the Casa Grande, where Mrs. Bowring received us with overflowing hospitality.  We went off presently into the town, to see the glassworks.  In a country where all things imported have to be carried in rough waggons, or on mules’ backs, and over bad roads, it would be hard if it did not pay to make glass; and, accordingly, we found the works in full operation.  The soda is produced at Mr. Bowling’s works close by, the fuel is charcoal from the mountains, and for sand they have a substitute, which I never heard of or saw anywhere else.  It seems that a short distance from Tezcuco there is a deposit of hydrated silica, which is brought down in great blocks by the Indians; and this, when calcined, answers the purpose perfectly, as there is scarcely any iron in it.  In its natural state it resembles beeswax in colour.

It is worth while to describe the Casa Grande, which is strikingly different from our European notions of the “great house” of the village.  As we enter by the gate, we find ourselves in a patio—­an open quadrangle surrounded by a covered walk—­a cloister in fact, into which open the rooms inhabited by the family.  The second quadrangle, which opens into the first, is devoted to stables, kitchen, &c.  The outer wall which surrounds the whole is very thick, and the entire building is built of mud bricks baked in the sun, and has no upper storey at all.  It is a Pompeian house on a large scale, and suits the climate perfectly.  The Aztec palaces we read so much of were built in just the same way.  The roofs slope inwards from the sides of the quadrangle, and drain into the open space in the middle.  One afternoon, a tremendous tropical rain-storm showed us how necessary it was to have the covered walk round the quadrangle raised considerably above this open square in the middle, which a few minutes of such rain converted into a pond.

As for ourselves, we spent many very pleasant days at the Casa Grande, and thoroughly approved of the arrangement of the house, except that the four corners of the patio were provokingly alike, and the doors of the rooms also, so that we were as much bothered as the captain of the forty thieves to find our own doors, or any door except Mr. Millard’s, whose name was indicated—­with more regard to pronunciation than spelling—­with a 1 and nine 0’s chalked on it.

In spite of a late evening spent in very pleasant society, we were up early next morning, ready for an excursion to the Pyramids of Teotihuacan, some sixteen miles off, or so, under the guidance of one of Mr. Bowring’s men.  The road lies through the plain, between great plantations of magueys, for this is the most renowned district in the Republic for the size of its aloes, and the quality of the pulque