WOODCUTS: 

  (The cuts of smaller objects of antiquity, and articles at present
   in use, have been drawn from specimens in the Collection of Henry
   Christy, Esq.)

  Indian Tlachiquero, collecting juice of the Agave for Pulque.

  View of Part of the Valley of Mexico.

  Water-carrier and Mexican Woman at the Fountain.

  Group of Mexican Ecclesiastics.

  Stone Spear-heads, and Obsidian Knives and Arrow-heads, from Mexico.

  Fluted Prism of Obsidian, and Knife-flakes.

  Mexican Arrow-heads of Obsidian.

  Aztec Stone-knife, with wooden handle, inlaid with mosaic work.

  Aztec Head in Terra-cotta.

  The Rebozo and the Serape.

  Aztec Bridge near Tezcuco.

  Spanish-Mexican Saddle and appendages.

  Spanish-Mexican Bit, with ring and chain.

  Sculptured Panel, from Xochicalco. (After Nebel).

  Small Aztec Head in Terra-cotta.

  Ixtacalco Church.

  Spanish-Mexican Spurs.

  Goddess of War. (After Nebel).

  Three Views of a Sacrificial Collar or Clamp, carved out of hard
    stone.

  Two Views of a Mask, carved out of hard stone.

  Ancient Bronze Bells.

  Spanish-Mexican Cock-spurs.

  Leather Sandals.

  Mexican Costumes. (After Nebel).

  View of Orizaba.

  Indians of the Plateau. (After Nebel).

[Illustration:  MAP OF PART OF MEXICO TO ILLUSTRATE A JOURNEY FROM VERA CRUZ TO MEXICO AND BACK & EXCURSIONS IN THE COUNTRY, By Messrs. E.B.  Tylor and H. Cristy.]

CHAPTER I.

THE ISLE OF PINES.

In the spring of 1856, I met with Mr. Christy accidentally in an omnibus at Havana.  He had been in Cuba for some months, leading an adventurous life, visiting sugar-plantations, copper-mines, and coffee-estates, descending into caves, and botanizing in tropical jungles, cruising for a fortnight in an open boat among the coral-reefs, hunting turtles and manatis, and visiting all sorts of people from whom information was to be had, from foreign consuls and Lazarist missionaries down to retired slave-dealers and assassins.

As for myself, I had been travelling for the best part of a year in the United States, and had but a short time since left the live-oak forests and sugar-plantations of Louisiana.  We agreed to go to Mexico together; and the present notes are principally compiled from our memorandum-books, and from letters written home on our journey.

Before we left Cuba, however, we made one last excursion across the island, and to the Isla de Pinos—­the Isle of Pines—­off the southern coast.  A volante took us to the railway-station.  The volante is the vehicle which the Cubans specially affect; it is like a Hansom cab, but the wheels are much taller, six and a half feet high, and the black driver sits postillion-wise upon the horse.  Our man had a laced jacket, black leather leggings, and a pair of silver spurs fastened upon his bare feet, which seemed at a little distance to have well polished boots on, they were so black and shiny.