They are also gaining some education by the present freedom of the press and of discussion.  I should like to write a letter for England, giving my view of the present position of things here.

* * * * *

Rome, October 18, 1847.—­In the spring, when I came to Rome, the people were in the intoxication of joy at the first serious measures of reform taken by the Pope.  I saw with pleasure their childlike joy and trust.  Still doubts were always present whether this joy was not premature.  From the people themselves the help must come, and not from the princes.  Rome, to resume her glory, must cease to be an ecclesiastical capital.  Whilst I sympathized with the warm love of the people, the adulation of leading writers, who were willing to take all from the prince of the Church as a gift and a bounty, instead of steadily implying that it was the right of the people, was very repulsive to me.  Passing into Tuscany, I found the liberty of the press just established.  The Grand Duke, a well-intentioned, though dull, man, had dared to declare himself an Italian prince.  I arrived in Florence too late for the great fete of the 12th September, in honor of the grant of the National Guard, but the day was made memorable by the most generous feeling on all sides.  Some days before were passed by reconciling all strifes, composing all differences between cities, districts, and individuals.  On that day they all embraced in sign of this; exchanged banners as a token that they would fight for one another.

AMERICANS IN ITALY.

The Americans took their share in this occasion, and Greenough,—­one of the few Americans who, living in Italy, takes the pains to know whether it is alive or dead, who penetrates beyond the cheats of tradesmen, and the cunning of a mob corrupted by centuries of slavery, to know the real mind, the vital blood of Italy,—­took a leading part.  I am sorry to say that a large portion of my countrymen here take the same slothful and prejudiced view as the English, and, after many years’ sojourn, betray entire ignorance of Italian literature and Italian life beyond what is attainable in a month’s passage through the thoroughfares.  However, they did show, this time, a becoming spirit, and erected the American Eagle where its cry ought to be heard from afar.  Crawford, here in Rome, has had the just feeling to join the Guard, and it is a real sacrifice for an artist to spend time on the exercises; but it well becomes the sculptor of Orpheus.  In reference to what I have said of many Americans in Italy, I will only add that they talk about the corrupt and degenerate state of Italy as they do about that of our slaves at home.  They come ready trained to that mode of reasoning which affirms, that, because men are degraded by bad institutions, they are not fit for better.  I will only add some words upon the happy augury I draw from the wise docility of the people.  With