Tuesday morning, six o’clock.—We had arrived at Coburg, a thriving town on Lake Ontario, where I left letters for the importers of lace. It is a rising town of 3000 inhabitants, and will soon rank high in Upper Canada. We passed Port Hope, another rising town; and on the right Bondhead and Windsor. Lake Ontario is a wonder indeed—216 miles long, and 90 miles wide—a truly magnificent sheet of water, very rough at times. We arrived at Stone’s Hotel, Toronto, at three o’clock, P.M. The country round is flat, and bare of scenic interest; but the town itself is full of life, motion, bustle, and business. The streets are well paved and lighted with gas—the only place in Canada, except Montreal, where gas is introduced; the houses large and good; the shops excellent—many of them may vie with the best shops in thriving country-towns in England. There are a handsome church, courthouse, and public offices, and many commodious private residences. It is matter of regret that here, too, political differences run high. I visited the Reform Association, where the noted Baldwin was holding forth, and preaching sedition under pretence of abusing the Governor-General. This body are spreading discord, by their branches, all through Canada: where it will end is to be seen. I saw all the importers, and retired to rest tired, at eleven o’clock.
Population of Toronto, 20,000.
Wednesday.—This town must rise in commerce, and must stand second to Montreal. They are active business men, and have lots of back-country to depend upon—good land, and the farmers of the old Dutch sort. The women must necessarily wear more clothes than in England, in consequence of the climate. At two o’clock I took the Eclipse mail-boat, Captain John Gordon, from Aberdeen; and let me observe, all these captains of steamers here are fine fellows, not very well paid—salary not more than L300 a year. We were again on Lake Ontario, and passed Port Credit, Oakville, and Wellington-square on the right: healthy towns, but small. The farmers here all reserve a good portion of wood for fire, and rails and planks for domestic purposes. At the bottom of the lake we passed through a short canal into Burlington Bay—a beautiful sheet of water; and arrived at Hamilton, at the terminus of the navigation.
Thursday morning.—Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000 inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M’Nab, who made such a formidable stand for the constitution against the rebels L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.