In 1823 they seem to have travelled only through the south and south-west; in 1824 they pushed north to the lakes, stayed awhile at Keswick, and while the father went about his business, the child was rambling with his nurse on Friar’s Crag, among the steep rocks and gnarled roots, which suggested, even at that age, the feelings expressed in one of the notable passages in “Modern Painters.”  Thence they went on to Scotland, and revisited their relatives at Perth.  In 1825 they took a more extended tour, and spent a few weeks in Paris, partly for the festivities at the coronation of Charles X., partly for business conference with Mr. Domecq, who had just been appointed wine-merchant to the King of Spain.  Thence they went to Brussels and the field of Waterloo, of greater interest than the sights of Paris to six-year-old John, who often during his boyhood celebrated the battle, and the heroes of the battle, in verse.

Before he was quite three he used to climb into a chair and preach.  There is nothing so uncommon in that.  Of Robert Browning, his neighbour and seven-years-older contemporary, the same tale is told.  But while the incident that marks the baby Browning is the aside, a propos of a whimpering sister, “Pew-opener, remove that child,” the baby Ruskin is seen in his sermon:  “People, be dood.  If you are dood, Dod will love you; if you are not dood, Dod will not love you.  People, be dood.”

At the age of four he had begun to read and write, refusing to be taught in the orthodox way—­this is so accurately characteristic—­by syllabic spelling and copy-book pothooks.  He preferred to find a method out for himself, and he found out how to read whole words at a time by the look of them, and to write in vertical characters like book-print, just as the latest improved theories of education suggest.  His first letter may be quoted as illustrating his own account of his childhood, and as proving how entirely Scotch was the atmosphere in which he was brought up.  The postmark gives the date March 15, 1823.  Mrs. Ruskin premises that John was scribbling on a paper from which he proceeded to read what she writes down (I omit certain details about the whip): 

     “My dear papa,

“I love you.  I have got new things.  Waterloo Bridge—­Aunt Bridget brought me it.  John and Aunt helped to put it up, but the pillars they did not put right, upside down.  Instead of a book bring me a whip, coloured red and black....  To-morrow is Sabbath.  Tuesday I go to Croydon.  I am going to take my boats and my ship to Croydon.  I’ll sail them on the pond near the burn which the bridge is over.  I will be very glad to see my cousins.  I was very happy when I saw Aunt come from Croydon.  I love Mrs. Gray and I love Mr. Gray.  I would like you to come home, and my kiss and my love.”

     [First autograph in straggling capitals]

     “John Ruskin”