We decided to take the Odessa route to Batoum, and we went by Berlin, Oderberg, and Lemberg.  At Odessa we found that a less expensive, and more comfortable, though perhaps half a day longer route, lies by Warsaw.  On that line there are fewer changes, and only one Customs examination, whereas by, Oderberg there are two examinations, Austrian and Russian.  Moreover, through tickets are issued via Warsaw, a convenience not provided via Oderberg—­fresh tickets and re-booking of luggage being necessary there, and again both at Pod Voloczyska and Voloczyska, on the Austrian and Russian frontiers.  We came in for a crowded train of first-class passengers going from the Vienna direction to Jalta, a favourite seaside place in the Crimea, which has two fashionable seasons—­spring and autumn.  These people were making for the accelerated mail-steamer, which leaves Odessa for Batoum every Wednesday during the summer service, touching at Sebastopol, Jalta, and Novorossisk.  We were making for the same steamer, and found crowded cabins.  The mass of luggage to be examined at Voloczyska caused much confusion and delay, and it was only by discreetly managed appeals to the working staff that we were able to push our way and pass on, without anything being left behind.  There appeared to be orders for very special examination of books and papers at Voloczyska, and these were carried out in a foolishly perfunctory manner.  In my luggage, the man who searched passed over a bulky tourist writing-case, but carried off to a superior a Continental Bradshaw, a blank notebook, and a packet of useful paper, notwithstanding my open show of their innocence.  The man soon returned with another official, who smiled at the mistake, and good naturedly helped to close up my baggage.

We began our journey well by a rapid run to Odessa, arriving there on the day of departure of the fast boat, and landing at Batoum in six and a half days from London.  The steamers on this service are about 2,500 tons, 2,400 horse-power, with large accommodation for passengers.  The cabins are comfortable, and the saloons excellent and well served, and all are lit with the electric light.  These boats are, I believe, Tyne-built.  They are broad of beam, and behave well in bad weather.  Novorossisk is a growing great port, situated in a very pretty bay.  It has lately been joined by railway to the main trunk line connecting with Moscow, and passing through Rostov.  This connection enables it to attract considerable trade from the Don and the Volga, and also to take much from Rostov and Taganrog, when the Azov approaches are closed with ice.  A very fine sea-wall, to give effectual protection to the railway loading-piers, and the shipping generally, is now being completed at a total cost of L850,000.  Novorossisk is said to have the biggest ‘elevator’ in the world.  The scenery all along the coast, from the Crimea to Batoum, is very fine, and in autumn the voyage is most enjoyable.