THE SITUATION IN PERSIA (1896).

II.

—­The Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din
—­His previous position at Tabriz
—­Character and disposition
—­His sons
—­Accession to the throne
—­Previous accessions in the Kajar-dynasty
—­Regalia and crown jewels
—­Position of the late Shah’s two sons, Zil-es-Sultan and Naib-es-Sultaneh
—­The Sadr Azem (Grand Vazir)
—­Prompt action on the death of the late Shah

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

H.I.M.  NASR-ED-DIN, THE LATE SHAH, ON THE STEPS OF THE PEACOCK THRONE

FEMALE PIPE-BEARER OF THE ANDERUN

PERSIAN LADY AT HOME

ARMENIAN MOTHER AND CHILDREN

THE PRESENT SHAH (WHEN VALI-AHD) ENTERING HIS CARRIAGE

PERSIAN TURK OF THE MILITARY TRIBES

A MENDICANT DERVISH OF TEHRAN

A DERVISH STORY-TELLER OF TEHRAN

H.I.M.  MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH

H.H.  ALI ASGHAR KHAN, SADR-AZEM

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INSCRIPTION ON THE SEAL OF THE LATE SHAH, SHOWN ON THE COVER.

’El Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan.  El Sultan, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar.’

’The King, Son of the King, Son of the King, Son of the King.  The King, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar line.’

* * * * *

PERSIA REVISITED

CHAPTER I.

—­London to Baku —­Oil-wells and works —­Persians abroad —­Caspian steamers —­Caspian salmon —­Enzelli lagoon —­The Jews in Persia —­Resht trade —­’My eye’ —­Russian road —­The tobacco ‘strike,’ 1891 —­Collapse of Tobacco Regie —­Moulla opposition.

The Persians, as a people still nomadic in their habits, and much given to long pilgrimages, have good knowledge of the ways and means of making a journey pleasant.  Their saying, ‘Avval rafik, baad tarik’ (First a companion, then the road), is one which most travellers can fully appreciate.  Accordingly, when planning a trip in the autumn of 1895 to the Land of Iran, I cast about for a companion, and was fortunate enough to meet with two friends, both going that way, and who, moreover, like myself, had previously journeyed in Persia.