This was the manner in which the thing was done:  All new-comers were told that if they wished to go to the Pitti balls they must notify to the English minister their desire to be presented to the grand duke.  In return, they received an intimation that they must be in the ante-room of the suite of receiving-rooms at eight o’clock on such an evening—­ladies in ball-dress; gentlemen in evening-dress with white neckcloths.  It may be observed here that this matter of the white neckcloth was the only point insisted on.  Both ladies and gentlemen were allowed to exercise the utmost latitude of private judgment as to what constituted “ball-dress” and “evening-dress.”  I have seen a black stuff gown fitting closely round the throat pass muster for the first, and a gray frockcoat for the second.  But the officials at the door would refuse to admit a man with a black neckerchief; and I once saw a man thus rejected retire a few steps into a corridor, whip off the offending black silk and put it in his pocket, obtain a fragment of white tape from some portion of a lady’s dress, put that round his shirt-collar, and then again presenting himself be recognized by the officials as complying with the exigencies of etiquette.  The aspirants to “court society” having assembled, from twenty to fifty, perhaps, in number, according as it was earlier or later in the season, presently the minister bustled in, and with a hurried “Now then!” led his motley flock into the presence-chamber, where they were formed into line.  Much about the same moment (for the grand duke had “the royal civility” of punctuality, and rarely kept people waiting) His Serene Imperial and Royal Highness came shambling into the room in the white-and-gold uniform of an Austrian general officer, and looking very much as if he had just been roused out of profound slumber, and had not yet quite collected his senses.  Walking as if he had two odd legs, which had never been put to work together before, he came to a standstill in front of the row of presentees.  If there was any person of any sort of distinction among them, the minister whispered a word or two in the grand ducal ear, and motioned the lion to come forward.  His Imperial and Royal Highness, after one glance of helpless suffering at the stranger, fixed his gaze on his own boots.  A long pause ensued, during which courtly etiquette forbade the stranger to utter a word.  At last His Highness shifted his weight on to his left foot, hung his head down on his shoulder on the same side, and said “Ha!” Another pause, the presentee hardly considering himself justified in replying to this observation.  The duke finding he had made a false start and accomplished nothing, shifted his weight to the right foot, simultaneously hanging his head on his shoulder on that side, and said “Hum!” It would often occur that when he had reached that point he would make a duck forward with his head to signify that the audience was at an end.