When the caravan has come to the place where the night is to be spent, the Kjerwan-Bashi canters ahead and designates the exact spot for the camp.  The beasts of burden are unloaded as they arrive, and the huge bags are placed together as a kind of fortification in the shape of a quadrangle, within which each one prepares himself a place of rest.  Our tent, which was the only one in the caravan, stood outside and was given a special guard of Bashi-Bazouks.  The camels and mules were turned loose in the high grass where they were expected to look also for all the water they needed.

As soon as it grows dark the camels, which have roved often at half an hour’s distance, are collected.  The leaders call to them, and since each one knows his master’s poah! poah! they obediently come home.  They are arranged in rows within the quadrangle.  The smallest boy can control these big, strong, yet harmless and helpless animals.  He calls:  Krr! krr! and the huge beasts patiently sink to their knees.  Then they fold their hind legs, and after a series of strange, undulating movements all are lying in regular rows, moving their long necks in every direction and looking about.  I have always noticed the resemblance of a camel’s neck with that of an ostrich, and the Turks call these birds deve-kush, the camel-birds.  A thin cord is then tied around one bent knee of each camel.  If it should rise it would have to stand on three legs, and would be unable to move.

On this evening we were visited by several friendly Arabs, short and thin, but strong and sinewy people.  Their complexion was yellowish-brown, their eyes were small and vivacious.  An assumed dignity barely disguised their native vivacity, and their guttural speech reminded us very strongly of the Jews.  Their dress consisted of a rough cotton shirt, a white woolen cloak and a red and yellow kerchief, half-silk, which each man had fastened about his head with a string, just as you see it on the Egyptian statues.

[Illustration:  MOLTKE AT SEDAN ANTON VON WERNER]

Hunting-in the Tshull is highly successful.  There are countless gazelles, pheasants and partridges hiding in the tall grass.  On the third day we were just on the point of following some bustards, which clumsily rise on their wings and after some time descend again to the ground, when a general alarm arose in the caravan.  “The Arabs are coming!” was shouted everywhere.  A throng had been noticed in the distance approaching very rapidly.  The head of our column stopped, but since our whole caravan was stretched out to the length of approximately four miles, there was little hope of protecting it with a guard of some sixty armed men.  The horsemen galloped ahead to an artificial mount, where the Arabs were pointed out to me.  There were indeed numerous black spots moving rapidly through the plain, but since I had a small telescope with me I could quickly convince my companions that what we saw before us was nothing but a huge herd of wild boars bearing down upon us.  Soon the beasts could be recognized with the naked eye.