When we were tolerably dry we continued our journey, but renewed downpours spoiled the moderate results of our previous efforts.  The night was so dark that we had to tie up, for fear of being drawn into other whirlpools.  In spite of the biting cold, and although we were wet to the skin, we did not dare to light a fire which might have attracted the Arabs.  We silently pulled our raft into the shelter of a willow tree and waited longingly for the sun to appear from behind the Persian frontier mountains and to give us warmth.

Not far from Dshesireh the Tigris enters another plain and leaves behind the high and magnificent Dshudid mountains on whose bright and snow-clad peaks Noah and his mixed company are said to have disembarked.  From here on the scenery is very monotonous; you rarely see a village, and most of those you see are uninhabited and in ruins.  It is apparent that you have entered the country of the Arabs.  There are no trees, and where a small bush has survived it is a siareth or sanctuary, and is covered with countless small rags.  The sick people here, you must know, believe they will recover when they sacrifice to the saint a small part of their garments.

On the top of an isolated mountain of considerable height we could see at a great distance the ruins of an old city.  When we approached it we actually passed along three sides of this mountain, on the north, east and south.  The city was, I suppose, the ancient Bezabde of which the records say that it was situated in the desert and surrounded on three sides by the Tigris.  Sapor laid siege to it after he had taken Amida and, when he had captured its three legions, gave it a Persian garrison.

Gliding past the ruins of the so-called old Mossul we discovered toward evening the minarets of Mossul.  This is the most easterly point which I have visited, and my Turkish companions had to face west when they offered their evening prayer, while in Constantinople the moslems are looking for the Kibla in the southeast.

Mossul is the important half-way station for the caravans from Bagdad to Aleppo.  Being situated in an oasis of the desert the city must at all times be on the lookout against the Arabs.  The walls which completely surround the city are weak but high, and offer sufficient protection against the irregular bands of mounted Bedouins.  The Bab-el-amadi gate, mentioned in the time of the crusaders, is still standing, although it has been walled up.  Most of the dwellings are built of sun-dried bricks and a kind of mortar which hardens within a few seconds.  Following an Oriental custom great weight is attached to beautiful and large entrance doors (Bab).  You can see arched portals of marble (which is quarried immediately outside the city gates) in front of houses and mudhuts the roofs of which scarcely reach to the points of the arches.  The roofs are flat, made of stamped earth (Dam), and are surrounded by low walls and parapets.  In most of the larger houses you can see traces of their having been hit by bullets, and the fortress-like aspect of these dwellings reminds you of the palaces of Florence, except that here everything is smaller, humbler and less perfect.