The town of Hassn-Kejfa (Hossu-Keifa), situated on a high rock whence a narrow staircase descends to the river, offers a most unusual aspect.  The old city below has been destroyed, and only a few minarets still pointing to the sky indicate that mosques and houses once stood here.  The inhabitants were obliged to retreat to the top of the cliff, where they built a wall of defence on the only accessible side.  In the narrow ravine I discovered huge blocks which had rolled down from above.  People have hollowed them and are using them as dwelling places.  These “huts” today make up a small, very irregular town, which, however, possesses even a bazaar.  By far the most noteworthy remains are the ruins of a bridge which used to cross the Tigris.  There was one gigantic arch with a span of between eighty and one hundred feet.  I do not know whether the credit for such a daring structure should be given to the Armenian kings or the Greek emperors, or perhaps even to the califs.

It is impossible to travel more comfortably than we did.  Stretched out on downy pillows, and provided with victuals wine, tea, and a charcoal basin, we moved down the stream with the rapidity of an express coach and without the least exertion.  But the element which propelled us persecuted us in another form.  Rain poured from the sky incessantly after our departure from Diarbekir.  Our umbrellas no longer protected us, and our cloaks, garments and carpets were soaked.  On Easter day, just as we were leaving Dshesireh, the sun broke through the clouds, warming our stiffened limbs.  About two miles below the city the ruins of another bridge across the Tigris are still in existence, and one of its piers creates a fierce whirlpool whenever the water is high.  The exertions of the men at the oars were of no avail, and irresistibly our small ark was attracted by this charybdis.  With the speed of an arrow we were sucked down below the surface, and a big comber broke over our heads.  The water was icy cold, and when in the next moment our raft, which had not capsized, continued its way downstream as innocently as if nothing had happened we could not help laughing at one another, for we were a sad looking sight, everyone of us.  The charcoal basins had gone overboard, a boot swam alongside, while each one of us hastened to fish out some little object.  We made a landing on a small island, and since our bags were as thoroughly soaked as we were ourselves, we had to disrobe and spread our entire toilet in the sun to dry as well as possible.  At some distance a flock of pelicans were taking their rest on a sandbank and sunning their white plumage as if in derision of our plight.  Suddenly we saw that our raft had got loose and was floating off.  One of the agas immediately jumped after it and fortunately reached it.  If he had failed we should have been left on a desert island in nothing but nature’s own garb.