of gifts, though I fear that neither of them will
make way in that particular department of literature
selected by them for action. Oh, my dearest friend,
you may talk about coteries, but the English society
at Florence (from what I hear of the hum of it at
a distance) is worse than any coterie-society in the
world. A coterie, if I understand the thing, is
informed by a unity of sentiment, or faith, or prejudice;
but this society here is not informed at all.
People come together to gamble or dance, and if there’s
an end, why so much the better; but there’s not
an end in most cases, by any manner of means, and
against every sort of innocence. Mind, I imply
nothing about Mr. Lever, who lives irreproachably
with his wife and family, rides out with his children
in a troop of horses to the Cascine, and yet is as
social a person as his joyous temperament leads him
to be. But we live in a cave, and peradventure
he is afraid of the damp of us—who knows?
We know very few residents in Florence, and these,
with chance visitors, chiefly Americans, are all that
keep us from solitude; every now and then in the evening
somebody drops in to tea. Would, indeed, you were
near! but should I be satisfied with you ‘once
a week,’ do you fancy. Ah, you would soon
love Robert. You couldn’t help it, I am
sure. I should be soon turned down to an underplace,
and, under the circumstances, would not struggle.
Do you remember once telling me that ’all men
are tyrants’?—as sweeping an opinion
as the Apostle’s, that ’all men are liars.’
Well, if you knew Robert you would make an exception
certainly. Talking of the artistical English here,
somebody told me the other day of a young Cambridge
or Oxford man who deducted from his researches in
Rome and Florence that ‘Michael Angelo was a
wag.’ Another, after walking through the
Florentine galleries, exclaimed to a friend of mine,
’I have seen nothing here equal to those magnificent
pictures in Paris by Paul de Kock.’ My friend
humbly suggested that he might mean Paul de la Roche.
But see what English you send us for the most part.
We have had one very interesting visitor lately, the
grandson of Goethe. He did us the honour, he said,
of spending two days in Florence on our account, he
especially wishing to see Robert on account of some
sympathy of view about ‘Paracelsus.’
There can scarcely be a more interesting young man—quite
young he seems, and full of aspiration of the purest
kind towards the good and true and beautiful, and
not towards the poor laurel crowns attainable from
any possible public. I don’t know when I
have been so charmed by a visitor, and indeed Robert
and I paid him the highest compliment we could, by
wishing, one to another, that our little Wiedeman might
be like him some day. I quite agree with you
about the church of your Henry. It surprises
me that a child of seven years should find pleasure
even once a day in the long English service—too
long, according to my doxy, for matured years.