the place, because it is a place to see after all.
So we came, and were so charmed by the exquisite beauty
of the scenery, by the coolness of the climate and
the absence of our countrymen, political troubles
serving admirably our private requirements, that we
made an offer for rooms on the spot, and returned
to Florence for baby and the rest of our establishment
without further delay. Here we are, then; we
have been here more than a fortnight. We have
taken an apartment for the season—four
months—paying twelve pounds for the whole
term, and hoping to be able to stay till the end of
October. The living is cheaper than even at Florence,
so that there has been no extravagance in coming here.
In fact, Florence is scarcely tenable during the summer
from the excessive heat by day and night, even if there
were no particular motive for leaving it. We
have taken a sort of eagle’s nest in this place,
the highest house of the highest of the three villages
which are called the Bagni di Lucca, and which lie
at the heart of a hundred mountains sung to continually
by a rushing mountain stream. The sound of the
river and of the cicala is all the noise we hear.
Austrian drums and carriage wheels cannot vex us; God
be thanked for it; the silence is full of joy and
consolation. I think my husband’s spirits
are better already and his appetite improved.
Certainly little babe’s great cheeks are growing
rosier and rosier. He is out all day when the
sun is not too strong, and Wilson will have it that
he is prettier than the whole population of babies
here. He fixes his blue eyes on everybody and
smiles universal benevolence, rather too indiscriminately
it might be if it were not for Flush. But certainly,
on the whole he prefers Flush. He pulls his ears
and rides on him, and Flush, though his dignity does
not approve of being used as a pony, only protests
by turning his head round to kiss the little bare
dimpled feet. A merrier, sweeter-tempered child
there can’t be than our baby, and people wonder
at his being so forward at four months old and think
there must be a mistake in his age. He is so strong
that when I put out two fingers and he has seized
them in his fists he can draw himself up on his feet,
but we discourage this forwardness, which is not desirable,
say the learned. Children of friends of mine at
ten months and a year can’t do so much.
Is it not curious that my child should be remarkable
for strength and fatness? He has a beaming, thinking
little face, too; oh, I wish you could see it.
Then my own strength has wonderfully improved, just
as my medical friends prophesied; and it seems like
a dream when I find myself able to climb the hills
with Robert and help him to lose himself in the forests.
I have been growing stronger and stronger, and where
it is to stop I can’t tell, really; I can do
as much, or more, now than at any point of my life
since I arrived at woman’s estate. The air
of this place seems to penetrate the heart and not