were brilliant with rings, brows glittered with ferronieres, ear-rings of the newest mode were shining beneath travelling caps and hats, and chains abounded.  I could not persuade myself that this masquerade would succeed, but predicted a failure.  It really appeared to me that so shallow a distinction could avail nothing against harpies who denied the right of strangers to pass through their country with a few purchases of this nature, that had been clearly made for their own use.  But, while the sumptuary laws of the custom-houses are very rigid, and set limits to the wants of travellers without remorse, like quarantine regulations, they have some rules that seem framed expressly to defeat their own ordinances.

The road led up the mountain, where a view that is much praised exists.  It is the counterpart of that which is seen everywhere, when one touches on the eastern verge of the Jura, and first gets sight of Switzerland proper.  These views are divided into that which embraces the valley of the Aar and the Oberland range, and this which comprises the basin of the Leman, and the mountains that surround it.  Mont Blanc, of course, is included in the other.  On the whole, I prefer the first, although the last is singularly beautiful.  We got clear weather near the summit, and stopped a few minutes to dissect the elements of this scene.  The view is very lovely, beyond a question; but I think it much inferior to that which has been so often spoken of between us above Vevey, notwithstanding Mont Blanc enters into this as one of its most conspicuous objects.  I have, as yet, nowhere seen this mountain to so much advantage.  In size, as compared with the peaks around it, it is a hay-stack among hay-cocks, with the advantage of being a pile of shining ice, or frozen snow, while everything else near it is granite.  By insulating this mountain, and studying it by itself, one feels its mild sublimity; but still, as a whole, I give the preference greatly to the other view.  From this point the lake is too distant, the shores of Savoy dwindle in the presence of their mightier neighbour, and the mysterious-looking Valais, which in its peculiar beauty has scarcely a rival on earth, is entirely hid from sight.  Then the lights and shades are nearly lost from the summit of the Jura; and, after all, it is these lights and shades, the natural chiaroscuro, that finishes the picture.

We reached the first custom-house a little before sunset; but, as there was a reasonably good inn opposite, I determined to pass the night there, in order to be able to defend my rights against the myrmidons of the law at leisure, should it be necessary.  The carriage was driven to the door of the custom-house, and we were taken into separate rooms to be examined.  As for myself, I have no reason to complain; but the ladies were indignant at being subjected to a personal examination by a female harpy, who was equally without politeness and propriety.  Surely France—­polished,