Among other objects that crowd this back-ground, is a church which stands on a sharp acclivity, about a quarter of a mile on the rear of the town.  It is a stone building of some size, and has a convenient artificial terrace that commands, as a matter of course, a most lovely view.  We attended service in it the first Sunday after our arrival, and found the rites homely and naked, very much like those of our own Presbyterians.  There was a luxury about this building that you would hardly expect to meet among a people so simple, which quite puts the coquetry of our own carpeted, cushioned, closet-like places of worship to shame.  This is the summer church of Vevey, another being used for winter.  This surpasses the refinement of the Roman ladies, who had their summer and their winter rings, but were satisfied to use the same temples all the year round.  After all there is something reasonable in this indulgence:  one may love to go up to a high place to worship, whence he can look abroad on the glories of a magnificent nature, which always disposes the mind to venerate Omnipotence, and, unable to enjoy the advantage the year round, there is good sense in seizing such occasions as offer for the indulgence.  I have frequently met with churches in Switzerland perched on the most romantic sites, though this is the first whose distinctive uses I have ascertained.  There is a monument to the memory of Ludlow, one of Charles’ judges, in this church, and an inscription which attributes to him civic and moral merits of a high order.

The clergy in this canton, as in most, if not all the others, are supported by the state.  There is religious toleration, much as it formerly existed in New England, each citizen being master of his religious professions, but being compelled to support religion itself.  Here, however, the salaries are regulated by a common scale, without reference to particular congregations or parishes.  The pastors at first receive rather less than three hundred dollars a year.  This allowance is increased about fifty dollars at the end of six years, and by the same sum at each successive period of six years, until the whole amounts to two thousand Swiss, or three thousand French francs, which is something less than six hundred dollars.  There is also a house and a garden, and pensions are bestowed on the widows and children.  On the whole, the state has too much connexion with this great interest, but the system has the all-important advantage of preventing men from profaning the altar as a pecuniary speculation.  The population of Vaud is about 155,000 souls, and there are one hundred and fifty-eight Protestant pastors, besides four Catholics, or about one clergyman to each thousand souls, which is just about the proportion that exists in New York.