We went to church and listened to some excellent German, after which we paid our last visit to La Lorraine.  This house had been hired by King Jerome for a short time, after his exile in 1814, his brother Joseph occupying a neighbouring residence.  The W——­s told me that Jerome arrived, accompanied by his amiable wife, like a king, with horses, chamberlains, pages, and all the other appliances of royalty, and that it was curious, as well as painful, to witness how fast these followers dropped off, as the fate of the family appeared to be settled.  Few besides the horses remained at the end of ten days!

On our return from this visit we went in a body to pay our respect to our old friends, the bears.  I believe you have already been told that the city of Berne maintains four bears in certain deep pens, where it is the practice to feed them with nuts, cakes, apples, etc., according to the liberality and humour of the visitor.  The usage is very ancient, and has some connexion with a tradition that has given its name to the canton.  A bear is also the arms of the state.  One of these animals is a model of grace, waddling about on his hind legs like an alderman in a ball-room.  You may imagine that P——­ was excessively delighted at the sight of these old friends.  The Bernese have an engraving of the graceful bear in his upright attitude; and the stove of our salon at the Crown, which is of painted tile, among a goodly assemblage of gods and goddesses, includes Bruin as one of its ornaments.

Francois made his appearance after dinner, accompanied by his friend, le petit Savoyard, who had arrived from Frankfort, and came once more to offer his services to conduct us to Lapland, should it be our pleasure to travel in that direction.  It would have been ungracious to refuse so constant a suitor, and he was ordered to be in attendance next morning, to proceed towards the lake of Geneva.

In the evening we went on the Plateforme to witness the sunset, but the mountains were concealed by clouds.  The place was crowded, and refreshments were selling in little pavilions erected for the purpose.  We are the only Protestants who are such rigid observers of the Sabbath, the Scotch perhaps excepted.  In England there is much less restraint than in America, and on the Continent the Protestants, though less gay than the Catholics, very generally consider it a day of recreation, after the services of the church are ended.  I have heard some of them maintain that we have misinterpreted the meaning of the word holy, which obtains its true signification in the term holiday.  I have never heard any one go so far, however, as Hannah Moore says was the case with Horace Walpole, who contended that the ten commandments were not meant for people of quality.  No one whose mind and habits have got extricated from the fogs of provincial prejudices, will deny that we have many odious moral deformities in America, that appear in the garb of religious discipline and even religious doctrine, but which are no more than the offspring of sectarian fanaticism, and which, in fact, by annihilating charity, are so many blows given to the essential feature of Christianity; but, apart from these, I still lean to the opinion that we are quite as near the great truths as any other people extant.