We spent two days at Bontok very quietly and agreeably.  The first day, the 8th, was Sunday, and somehow or other I got to church (Father Clapp’s, the Protestant Episcopal missionary’s) only in time to see through the open door an Igorot boy, stark naked save gee-string and a little open coat, passing the plate.  Father Clapp has been here seven years, has compiled a Bontok-English Dictionary, and translated the Gospel of Saint Mark into the vernacular.  As already said, he has a school, a sort of hospital; is building a stone church; is full of his work, and deserves the warmest support.  It must be very hard to get at what is going on behind the eyes of his native parishioners.  For example, shortly before our arrival, a young Igorot had been confirmed by Bishop Brent.  Now this boy was attending school, and in the school was another boy from a rancheria that had taken a head from the rancheria of the recent convert.  When the latter’s people learned of this, they sent for their boy, the recent convert, the Monday after confirmation, held a canao (killing a pig, dancing, and so on), and sent him back resolved to take vengeance by killing the boy from the offending rancheria.  Accordingly, on Thursday, at night, the victim-to-be was lured behind the school-house under the pretext of getting a piece of meat, and, while his attention was held by an accomplice with the meat, the avenger came up behind, killed him, and was about to take his head when people came up and arrested him.  This case illustrates the difficulties to be met in civilizing these people.  Legally, under our view, this boy was a murderer; under his own customs and traditions, he had done a commendable thing.  When the boys’ school was first opened, they used to take their spears and shields into the room with them; this proving not only troublesome, but dangerous, their arms are now taken away from them every morning, and returned after school closes.

Many people came to see Governor Evans this day, among them a young man begging for the release of a prisoner held for murder.  He really could not see why the man should not be set free, and sat patiently for two hours on his haunches, every now and then holding up and presenting a white rooster, which he was offering in exchange.  The matter was not one for discussion at all, but Evans was as patient as his visitor, paying no attention to him whatever.  Whenever the pleader could catch Evans’s eye, up would go the rooster and be appealingly held out.  Only two or three weeks before, a private of Constabulary had shot and killed the head man of Tinglayan some miles north of Bontok.  He was arrested, of course, and when we came through was awaiting trial.  But a deputation had come in to wait on Mr. Forbes, and ask for the slayer, so that they might kill him in turn, with proper ceremonies.  Naturally the request was refused; but these people could not understand why, and went off in a state of sullen discontent.