which we are now approaching. Here there are the
homes of the people who came from the land of Confucius,
here the famous shops, the theatres, the Joss-houses
where heathen worship is maintained. As soon
then as you set foot within the area described you
feel that you are in a strictly foreign country; and
if this is your first visit, the place is to you a
sort of terra incognita. You will need a guide
to take you through its labyrinths and point out to
you its hidden recesses and explain the strange sights
and interpret for you the language which sounds so
oddly to your ears. If you have not some man
to conduct you, a dragoman or courier, you will be
likely to make mistakes as ludicrous as that related
of an English woman. Sir Henry Howarth, the author
of the “History of the Mongols,” a learned
and laborious work, was out dining one evening.
It fell to his lot at his host’s house to escort
a lady to the dinner table; and she, having a confused
idea of the great man’s theme, surprised him
somewhat by the abrupt question, “I understand,
Sir Henry, that you are fond of dogs. Are you
not? I am too.” “Dogs, madam?
I really must plead guiltless. I know nothing
at all of them!” “Indeed,” his fair
questioner replied; “and they told me you had
written a famous history of mongrels!” It is
best then always to take a guide, and you will have
no trouble in finding one, who will charge you from
two to three dollars an hour. If you go with
a small party, which is best, all can share the expense.
It will take about three hours to explore the town
thoroughly and study the life. The writer went
through Chinatown on two evenings at an interval of
a few days, and saw this Asiatic Quarter of San Francisco
to great advantage. The first time was with a
licensed guide of long experience, and the second
time it was under the direction of a police-detective.
Some five friends were in the party; and we started
on our tour of exploration about half past nine o’clock
at night. The night is the best time in which
to study the life, for then you can see the Chinese
in their houses and at their amusements, as well as
many others who still are at work; for some of the
Chinese artisans toil for sixteen hours a day, and
long into the hours of the night. Here among
them are no strikes for fewer hours, but patient toil,
as it were in a treadmill, without a murmur. My
licensed guide was Henry Gehrt, a man about fifty-five
years old, of German parentage. He had been in
the business for twenty-seven years, and he maintained
an office on Sacramento Street. His badge was
No. 60. All guides must wear badges according
to law. As we went hither and thither we met
occasionally groups of sight-seers, among them some
of our friends, members of the Convention, Bishops,
and clerical and lay deputies, who felt this was a
rare opportunity to study heathendom; and I am sure
all went away from this strange spot thanking God for
our noble Anglo-Saxon civilisation, as well as for
the knowledge of His Revelation.