pigeon shooting.  Now, this seems a lot of articles for a man to take on a short Samoan malaga (journey), but it is not, and for the L50 which it may cost for such an outfit (exclusive of the boat and crew’s wages) the traveller will see more of the people and their mode of life, be more hospitably received, and spend a pleasanter time than if he were cruising about in a 1,000-ton yacht.  The wages or boatmen and native sailors in Samoa are usually $15.00 per month, but many will gladly go on a malaga (the general acceptance of the word is a pleasure trip) for much less, for there is but little work, and much eating and drinking.  But, as sailors, the Samoans are a wretched lot, and the local living Savage Islanders, as the natives of Niue Island are called, are far better, especially if there is any wind or a beat to windward in a heavy sea.  These Savage Island “boys” can always be obtained in Apia.  They are good seamen and very willing to work; but they have to be fed entirely by their white employer, for the Samoans seldom make a present of food to a crew of Niue boys, for whom they profess a contempt and designate au puaa—­i.e., pigs.

The Samoan Group consists of five islands, trending from west by north to east by south.  The two largest are Upolu and Savaii.  Tutuila, and the Manua Group of three islands are too far to the windward to attempt in a small boat against the south-east trades.  And it would take quite three months to visit the principal villages on the two large islands, staying a few days at each place.

The best plan is to make to windward along the coast of Upolu after leaving Apia.  A large boat cannot be taken all the way inside the reef, owing to the many coral patches which, at low tide, render this course impracticable.  The first place of any importance is Saluafata, fifteen miles from Apia (I must mention that Apia is in the centre of Upolu, and on the north side), then Falifa|, an exquisitely pretty place, and then Fa|goloa Bay and village, eight miles further on.  This is the deepest indentation in Samoa, except the famous Pa|go Pa|go Harbour on Tutuila, and the scenery is very beautiful.  After leaving Fa|goloa, the open sea has to be taken, for there is now no barrier reef for ten miles, where it begins at Samusu village, to the towns of Aleipata and Lepa|, two of the best in the group, and inhabited by cleanly and hospitable people.  This is the weather point of Upolu, and after leaving Lepa| the boat has a clear run of over sixty miles before the glorious trades to the lee end of the island—­that is, unless a stay is made at the populous towns of Falealilli, Sa|fata, Lafa|ga, and Falelatai, on the southern coast.  The scenery along this part of the island is enchanting, but sudden squalls at night-time are sometimes frequent, from December to March, and ’tis always advisable to run into a port at sunset.